Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

5

Time Required

                          20 minutes            

Sections

1

  • Jabra Solemate Disassembly / Repair
  • 5 steps

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Introduction

After a complete disassembly and a deep look inside for broken solderings or something else i unsolderd the +(red) cable from the rechargeable battery pack.

After soldering it back - the device was fine again.

What you need

Step 1

              The bottom parts               
  • First we have to pull of the bottom rubber profile. You can easy lift it by using your fingers.
  • under the rubber are allocated two Torx 6 Screws which hold the strap in place. Loosen them to remove the strap.

First we have to pull of the bottom rubber profile. You can easy lift it by using your fingers.

under the rubber are allocated two Torx 6 Screws which hold the strap in place. Loosen them to remove the strap.

1024

Step 2

              Removing the upper cover               
  • At the side of the removed strap the cover is fixed with an adhesive tape. Gently bend the plastic that the adhesive tape will loose.
  • at the upper side you have to loosen 2x3 plastic snaps. At the other side, where the button and usb port is allocated, a second adhesive tape holds the upper case.

At the side of the removed strap the cover is fixed with an adhesive tape. Gently bend the plastic that the adhesive tape will loose.

at the upper side you have to loosen 2x3 plastic snaps. At the other side, where the button and usb port is allocated, a second adhesive tape holds the upper case.

Step 3

              Control PCB and Battery               
  • Now you can see the Main PCB and the Battery.
  • Here i could fix my problem of the not reacting device. I unsolderd the thicker red cable of the battery for a few seconds and soldered it back. that caused a hard reset. If this was your problem too, you can mount everything back.

Now you can see the Main PCB and the Battery.

Here i could fix my problem of the not reacting device. I unsolderd the thicker red cable of the battery for a few seconds and soldered it back. that caused a hard reset. If this was your problem too, you can mount everything back.

Step 4

              Disassemble the grille               
  • For removing the two grilles you have to loosen the four (2x2) black screws with a Torx 8 screwdriver at the top of the grilles. You have to pay attention to the two snaps in the middle of each grille.
  • Loosen the Main PCB by removing the four black screw of the PCB.
  • Battery - Gently lift the battery with a dull plastic part. The battery is put in place with an adhesive foil under it. Pay attention to not harm the battery or the cable routes under it.
  • Flat-Cable - the Flat Cable under the Battery is also hold in place with an adhesive tape and snap in at the bottom side of the PCB. Pay attention by lifting the PCB.

For removing the two grilles you have to loosen the four (2x2) black screws with a Torx 8 screwdriver at the top of the grilles. You have to pay attention to the two snaps in the middle of each grille.

Loosen the Main PCB by removing the four black screw of the PCB.

Battery - Gently lift the battery with a dull plastic part. The battery is put in place with an adhesive foil under it. Pay attention to not harm the battery or the cable routes under it.

Flat-Cable - the Flat Cable under the Battery is also hold in place with an adhesive tape and snap in at the bottom side of the PCB. Pay attention by lifting the PCB.

Step 5

              Disassemble the hole Housing               
  • On the side of the “sub-woofer” you have to loosen 6 small srews with a Torx 6 screwdriver.
  • Now you can pull apart the two half sides of the housing. Suprise: The “Sub-woofer” is not active. It uses the volume movement of the other speakers. That’s why the half sides are very well sealed to each other.

On the side of the “sub-woofer” you have to loosen 6 small srews with a Torx 6 screwdriver.

Now you can pull apart the two half sides of the housing. Suprise: The “Sub-woofer” is not active. It uses the volume movement of the other speakers. That’s why the half sides are very well sealed to each other.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                                                                                      6 other people completed this guide.                                             

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                                      with 3 other contributors 

                    Felix Cies.                     

Member since: 11/13/2017

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j foufou - Jan 23, 2018

Reply

hi, i ‘ve some issue with the female usb, it dissasembly from the sound card, how i can fix it?

thanks for your tuto

Samuli Kaipiainen - Jul 13, 2019

My micro-usb was ripped from pcb with copper traces; I glued it back, scratched some solder mask to reveal copper traces, fluxed them and dragged solder from usb pins to traces. It’s so small I can’t really see which contacts are good, but… It does charge (for) now

California Tapia - Mar 19, 2018

Reply

[|i open mine n found something different]

Scott Remick - Jan 21, 2019

Reply

There’s an identical cavity on the other side of the PCB, and another set of three contacts on the PCB on the other side marked + & -. I wonder if an original design called for 2 of these batteries? I wonder if one could wire up a second to those contacts and double the battery life?

Probably. Mine has a foam-padded nfc on that cavity, though I could fit a battery below the nfc board. Would have tried but don’t have extra battery handy.

My ripped micro-usb fix is so unstable that it might break any time anyway, so one battery will do