Iphone Xr Lcd And Digitizer Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          40 minutes - 2 hours

Sections

Pentalobe Screws
1 step
Taping Over The Display
1 step
Opening Procedure
10 steps
Display Assembly
8 steps
Earpiece and Front Sensor Assembly
9 steps
LCD and Digitizer
14 steps

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Introduction

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone at the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any screen replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID won’t work, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the pentalobe screws

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.
There’s a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

There’s a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

1024

Step 2

              Tape over any cracks

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

Step 3

              Heat up the screen

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 4

              Apply suction cup(s)

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Press both suction cups firmly into place.
If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Press both suction cups firmly into place.

If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

Step 5

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.
Skip the next two steps and continue to step 8.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

Skip the next two steps and continue to step 8.

Step 6

If you’re using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

If you’re using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 7

              Lift the display slightly

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 8

              Separate the screen adhesive

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 9

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 10

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 11

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it’s still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

If you used an iSclack and it’s still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Step 12

              Open the iPhone

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Step 13

              Unscrew the battery connector cover

Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.
Remove the bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 14

              Disconnect the battery

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 15

              Unscrew the display connector cover

Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.
Remove the bracket.

Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.

Step 16

              Disconnect the digitizer

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 17

              Disconnect the display

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

Step 18

              Unscrew the logic board connector cover

Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:
One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw
One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw
Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws
Remove the bracket.
Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It’s secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:

One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws

Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It’s secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

Step 19

              Disconnect the front sensors

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

Step 20

              Remove the display assembly

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 21

              Unscrew the earpiece speaker

Remove the four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:
Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm Y000 screw

Remove the four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:

Two 1.6 mm Phillips screws

One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

One 1.2 mm Y000 screw

Step 22

              Flip the speaker over

Using tweezers, gently flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Using tweezers, gently flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 23

              Heat the front sensor strip

Use a hairdryer, a heat gun, or a heated iOpener applied to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Use a hairdryer, a heat gun, or a heated iOpener applied to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Step 24

              Pry up the microphone

Carefully slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.
Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.
If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel. If the microphone remains difficult to separate, apply more heat.

Carefully slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel. If the microphone remains difficult to separate, apply more heat.

Step 25

              Pry up the proximity sensor

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.
Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.
It’s helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

It’s helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

Step 26

              Remove the ambient light sensor bracket

Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.

Use tweezers to slide the small bracket straight up and off of the ambient light sensor.

Step 27

              Lift the ambient light sensor

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.
If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.
The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

If the sensor does not wiggle free after a few seconds, apply more heat and try again.

The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 28

If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.
If the white diffuser strip is detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.
During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.

If the white diffuser strip is detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.

During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

Step 29

              Remove the speaker + front sensors

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

Proximity sensor

Flood illuminator

The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Step 30

              Unscrew the LCD shield plate

Use a Y000 driver to remove the 1.1 mm screws securing the LCD shield:
Three screws on the side nearest the display cables
Two more screws on the opposite side
Press your driver firmly into the screw while turning it. If needed, you can use your spudger to brace each screw from behind, in order to apply more pressure to the screws without bending the shield.

Use a Y000 driver to remove the 1.1 mm screws securing the LCD shield:

Three screws on the side nearest the display cables

Two more screws on the opposite side

Press your driver firmly into the screw while turning it. If needed, you can use your spudger to brace each screw from behind, in order to apply more pressure to the screws without bending the shield.

Step 31

Remove the remaining 1.1 mm Y000 screws from the top and bottom edges of the LCD shield:
Two screws near the camera cutouts
Two screws at the bottom corners

Remove the remaining 1.1 mm Y000 screws from the top and bottom edges of the LCD shield:

Two screws near the camera cutouts

Two screws at the bottom corners

Step 32

              Add a little heat

Apply a little heat from an iOpener (or hair dryer / heat gun) to the back of the display, in order to soften the adhesive securing the display cables to the LCD shield.

Apply a little heat from an iOpener (or hair dryer / heat gun) to the back of the display, in order to soften the adhesive securing the display cables to the LCD shield.

Step 33

              Unstick the display cables

Insert an opening pick between the display cables and LCD shield.
Slide it toward the bottom edge of the display to begin separating the cables.
Stop when you reach the end of the first cable.

Insert an opening pick between the display cables and LCD shield.

Slide it toward the bottom edge of the display to begin separating the cables.

Stop when you reach the end of the first cable.

Step 34

              Separate the two cables

Re-insert your opening pick, this time between the two cables.
Slide the pick to the bottom edge of the display to separate the cables from each other.

Re-insert your opening pick, this time between the two cables.

Slide the pick to the bottom edge of the display to separate the cables from each other.

Step 35

Grab each cable near its 90° bend, and peel them apart.

Grab each cable near its 90° bend, and peel them apart.

Step 36

Peel the entire digitizer cable away from the LCD shield, and fold it aside.

Peel the entire digitizer cable away from the LCD shield, and fold it aside.

Step 37

              Lift the shield plate

Insert an opening pick under the top edge of the LCD shield, and twist to separate it from the display.

Insert an opening pick under the top edge of the LCD shield, and twist to separate it from the display.

Step 38

Grab the LCD shield by its top edge and swing it upward a few degrees.
Using your spudger, press gently on the lower part of the display cable, pushing it through the cutout in the LCD shield.

Grab the LCD shield by its top edge and swing it upward a few degrees.

Using your spudger, press gently on the lower part of the display cable, pushing it through the cutout in the LCD shield.

Step 39

Raise the top edge of the LCD shield a bit higher, and feed the rest of the display cable through the cutout in the shield.

Raise the top edge of the LCD shield a bit higher, and feed the rest of the display cable through the cutout in the shield.

Step 40

              Separate the display cable

Raise the LCD shield up at a higher angle, until you can see the rest of the display cable stuck to the back.
Slide a spudger between the LCD shield and the display cable, and separate them completely.

Raise the LCD shield up at a higher angle, until you can see the rest of the display cable stuck to the back.

Slide a spudger between the LCD shield and the display cable, and separate them completely.

Step 41

              Check the EMI fingers

As you lift the LCD shield, note the metal prongs on the bottom edge.
During reassembly, make sure these prongs (a.k.a. EMI fingers) are correctly inserted into the LCD frame as shown.

As you lift the LCD shield, note the metal prongs on the bottom edge.

During reassembly, make sure these prongs (a.k.a. EMI fingers) are correctly inserted into the LCD frame as shown.

Step 42

              Remove the shield

Remove the LCD shield.

Remove the LCD shield.

Step 43

Only the LCD and digitizer remains.

Only the LCD and digitizer remains.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or search our Answers forum for help.

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Author

                    Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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James Heinrich - Sep 9, 2019

So it’s like the X had a baby with an 8

duc - Sep 9, 2019

Hello everyone! Hoping I can get some feedbacks on a problem I’m having. I’m doing a screen replacement on an XR but the bottom half of the screen is unresponsive to touch. The replacement screen is from another XR with original Apple screen. When I put the replacement screen back, it works fine so it can’t be anything that’s damaged on the replacement screen. Also this replacement screen does the same thing to any iphone XR I put in so I know it means there’s no problems with the logic board. The replacement screen only works with its original but not on any other XR.

RNS - Nov 7, 2019

i have same problem. Need Help

abooismail1234 - Feb 8, 2020

Did you find a way Around this ??im experiencing the same thing

Gene - Oct 11, 2019

What if I just needed to replace the front outer glass only, what steps are needed? Do you have to disassemble the phone?

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Introduction

What you need

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