Iphone X Rear Case Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

103

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

SIM Card
2 steps
Pentalobe Screws
1 step
Opening Procedure
10 steps
Display Assembly
8 steps
Lower Speaker
10 steps
Taptic Engine
3 steps
Battery
11 steps
Front Camera Assembly
4 steps
Logic Board (Motherboard)
12 steps
Rear-Facing Cameras
6 steps
Bottom Right Screen Retainer
2 steps
Lightning Connector
5 steps
Interconnect Cable
3 steps
Upper Right Screen Retainer
2 steps
Power Button and Flash Cable
3 steps
Volume Button Assembly
4 steps
Charging Pad / Volume Button Assembly
3 steps
WiFi Antenna
5 steps
Bluetooth Antenna
2 steps
Front Panel Screen Retainers
1 step
Power and Audio Exterior Buttons
5 steps
Rear Case
1 step

Flags

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Introduction

Just so you’re forewarned; this is the most difficult repair possible on an iPhone X that doesn’t involve microsoldering.

What you need

Step 1

              SIM Card

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the side button on the edge of the iPhone.
Press firmly to eject the tray.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located near the side button on the edge of the iPhone.

Press firmly to eject the tray.

1024

Step 2

Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.
The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.
When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your iPhone’s internal components.

Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket or the entire SIM tray to protect your iPhone’s internal components.

Step 3

              Pentalobe Screws

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.
Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Step 4

              Opening Procedure

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 5

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Press both suction cups firmly into place.
If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Press both suction cups firmly into place.

If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

Step 6

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
Skip the next two steps.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

Skip the next two steps.

Step 7

If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 8

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 9

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 10

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 11

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.
The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.
Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Step 12

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it’s still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

If you used an iSclack and it’s still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Step 13

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.
As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn’t get stuck in the device.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.

As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn’t get stuck in the device.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Step 14

              Display Assembly

Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.1 mm screws
One 3.1 mm screw
One 3.7 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

Three 1.1 mm screws

One 3.1 mm screw

One 3.7 mm screw

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Step 15

Remove the bracket.
The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove the bracket.

The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 16

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 17

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Step 18

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 19

Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.
This connector’s recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

This connector’s recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 20

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.
Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

Step 21

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 22

              Lower Speaker

Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone.
Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:
Two Y000 1.9 mm screws
One Y000 1.2 mm screw
One Y000 1.6 mm screw
One Phillips 2.4 mm screw
One Phillips 1.7 mm screw
One Phillips 1.5 mm screw

Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone.

Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:

Two Y000 1.9 mm screws

One Y000 1.2 mm screw

One Y000 1.6 mm screw

One Phillips 2.4 mm screw

One Phillips 1.7 mm screw

One Phillips 1.5 mm screw

Step 23

Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don’t try to remove it fully, as it’s still connected via a small flex cable.

Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don’t try to remove it fully, as it’s still connected via a small flex cable.

Step 24

While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

Step 25

Remove the bracket.

Step 26

Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

Step 27

Remove the speaker connector cover.

Remove the speaker connector cover.

Step 28

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

Step 29

When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out.
Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone’s case.
Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.
When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn’t get trapped underneath the speaker.

When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out.

Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone’s case.

Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn’t get trapped underneath the speaker.

Step 30

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

Step 31

Remove the speaker.
The speaker’s adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.
To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

Remove the speaker.

The speaker’s adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

Step 32

              Taptic Engine

Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.

Step 33

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

Step 34

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 35

              Battery

The iPhone X’s battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.
Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.

The iPhone X’s battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—one on the top cell, and three on the bottom.

Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.

Step 36

Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.
Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you’re having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.
Don’t jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

Separate the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom edge of the battery.

Each tab has a small loop in the center; insert a tool through the loop if you’re having trouble grabbing hold of the tab.

Don’t jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

Step 37

Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.
Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.

Repeat the above step to separate the remaining two adhesive tabs from the bottom edge of the battery.

Take care not to damage the speaker cable connector just below the center adhesive tab.

Step 38

In the following steps, you’ll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease.
If the strips break, don’t panic! They don’t always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.
To increase your odds of success:
Don’t press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.
Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.
Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.
Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn’t snag along the bottom edge of the battery.
If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.

In the following steps, you’ll pull each tab to slowly stretch out the adhesive underneath the battery. This special stretch-release adhesive loses its tack when stretched and then comes out in your hand, allowing you to lift out the battery with ease.

If the strips break, don’t panic! They don’t always work as intended. Keep reading for some additional steps for removing broken strips.

To increase your odds of success:

Don’t press down on the battery. Hold the iPhone firmly by its sides.

Keep the strips flat and unwrinkled as you pull.

Pull very slowly, giving the strip time to stretch and separate. It takes around 15-30 seconds of stretching to remove each strip.

Pull at a low angle so the strip doesn’t snag along the bottom edge of the battery.

If a strip does break off underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, move on to the other strips and then continue with the additional steps below.

Step 39

Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Grab one of the outer battery adhesive tabs and slowly pull it away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case.

The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

Step 40

Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.

Repeat the previous step to remove the strip on the opposite side, leaving the center strip for last.

Step 41

Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.

Remove the center strip, being careful not to snag it on the speaker flex cable.

Step 42

The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care.
Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.

The final pull tab lies very close to the Face ID hardware. If damaged, Face ID can only be repaired by Apple, so work with care.

Peel and separate the pull tab on the final adhesive strip, on the top edge of the upper battery cell.

Step 43

Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.
The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don’t press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery.
If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can’t be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.
Don’t try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.
For alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case, continue to the next step below.

Pull and remove the final adhesive strip.

The strip may fling the battery when it separates from the iPhone, so hold your hand over the battery to secure it—but don’t press down on the battery itself, or the added pressure may cause the adhesive strip to break off underneath the battery.

If you removed all four adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can’t be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

Don’t try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

For alternative methods to unstick the battery from the case, continue to the next step below.

Step 44

              Alternative method to unstick the battery from the case

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.
Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don’t overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.
Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.
Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.
If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don’t overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.

Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.

If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

Step 45

Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.
If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery does not come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Grasp the battery from the bottom edge and remove it from the iPhone.

If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.

Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

If your new battery does not come with adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide for help replacing the adhesive strips.

Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Step 46

              Front Camera Assembly

Using the flat end of a spudger, disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:
The dot projector.
The front camera.
The infrared camera.

Using the flat end of a spudger, disconnect the three front camera assembly cables:

The dot projector.

The front camera.

The infrared camera.

Step 47

The camera cables are lightly adhered to the midframe.
Using the tip of a spudger, start at the connector and slide the spudger between the IR camera cable and the case to separate the cable from the case.
Repeat for the front camera cable.

The camera cables are lightly adhered to the midframe.

Using the tip of a spudger, start at the connector and slide the spudger between the IR camera cable and the case to separate the cable from the case.

Repeat for the front camera cable.

Step 48

Apply heat to loosen the adhesive on the front camera assembly.

Apply heat to loosen the adhesive on the front camera assembly.

Step 49

Remove the front camera assembly.

Remove the front camera assembly.

Step 50

              Logic Board

Disconnect the following cable connectors.
The WiFi Antenna connector.
The Wide-Angle Camera connector.
The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.
The Telephoto Camera connector.
The Dock Flex connector.
The Button / Wireless Charging connector.
The Cellular Antenna connector.

Disconnect the following cable connectors.

The WiFi Antenna connector.

The Wide-Angle Camera connector.

The Power Button / Flash / Microphone connector.

The Telephoto Camera connector.

The Dock Flex connector.

The Button / Wireless Charging connector.

The Cellular Antenna connector.

Step 51

              WiFi Antenna Connector

Disconnect the WiFi Antenna cable connector.

Disconnect the WiFi Antenna cable connector.

Step 52

              Wide-Angle Camera Connector

Disconnect the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector.

Disconnect the Wide-Angle Camera cable connector.

Step 53

              Power Button / Flash / Microphone Connector

Disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector.

Disconnect the Power Button / Flash / Microphone cable connector.

Step 54

              Telephoto Camera Connector

Disconnect the Telephoto Camera cable connector.

Disconnect the Telephoto Camera cable connector.

Step 55

              Dock Flex Connector

Disconnect the Dock Flex cable connector.
Bend the cable 90 degrees straight up to allow clearance to remove the logic board.

Disconnect the Dock Flex cable connector.

Bend the cable 90 degrees straight up to allow clearance to remove the logic board.

Step 56

              Button / Wireless Charging Connector

Disconnect the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector.

Disconnect the Button / Wireless Charging cable connector.

Step 57

              Cellular Antenna Connector

Disconnect the Cellular Antenna cable connector.
Bend the cable out of the way.

Disconnect the Cellular Antenna cable connector.

Bend the cable out of the way.

Step 58

The logic board cannot be removed with the SIM card tray in place. If you failed to remove it earlier, take it out now.
Remove the two Phillips mounting screws.
One 2.7 mm Phillips screw.
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.
Remove the grounding tab.
Be sure to replace the metal grounding tab in the same orientation.

The logic board cannot be removed with the SIM card tray in place. If you failed to remove it earlier, take it out now.

Remove the two Phillips mounting screws.

One 2.7 mm Phillips screw.

One 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips grounding screw.

Remove the grounding tab.

Be sure to replace the metal grounding tab in the same orientation.

Step 59

              Retract the SIM Eject Pin

When the SIM card is ejected, a pin slides out from the frame and pushes on the eject lever in the SIM card carrier. The pin needs to be pushed back into the frame so it will not block the removal of the logic board.

When the SIM card is ejected, a pin slides out from the frame and pushes on the eject lever in the SIM card carrier. The pin needs to be pushed back into the frame so it will not block the removal of the logic board.

Step 60

Use a pair of fine tip tweezers to slide the SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case.
The eject lever should look like this when you’re done. The pin will no longer block the removal of the logic board.

Use a pair of fine tip tweezers to slide the SIM card eject lever toward the side of the case.

The eject lever should look like this when you’re done. The pin will no longer block the removal of the logic board.

Step 61

The logic board assembly is mounted on two posts going through the lower board and are secured to the upper board. In order to remove it, you must lift it evenly straight up to clear the stand-offs.

The logic board assembly is mounted on two posts going through the lower board and are secured to the upper board. In order to remove it, you must lift it evenly straight up to clear the stand-offs.

Step 62

              Rear-Facing Cameras

Remove two Phillips screws securing the camera bracket, of the following lengths:
One 2.3 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw

Remove two Phillips screws securing the camera bracket, of the following lengths:

One 2.3 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Step 63

Use tweezers to gently fold the small metal grounding bracket out of the way. Do not pull up on it as it is connected to a fragile flex cable.

Use tweezers to gently fold the small metal grounding bracket out of the way. Do not pull up on it as it is connected to a fragile flex cable.

Step 64

Lift the camera bracket from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it.
To reinstall the camera bracket, follow the images exactly in reverse: first, lower the outside edge until the tab on the right side slots into the gap between the phone’s case and the camera module. Then, hinge the bracket down over the camera module.

Lift the camera bracket from the edge closest to the battery, and remove it.

To reinstall the camera bracket, follow the images exactly in reverse: first, lower the outside edge until the tab on the right side slots into the gap between the phone’s case and the camera module. Then, hinge the bracket down over the camera module.

Step 65

Use an opening tool or fingernail to disconnect the two camera connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

Use an opening tool or fingernail to disconnect the two camera connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

Step 66

Press the point of a spudger against a small notch on the bottom right corner of the camera module.
Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.

Press the point of a spudger against a small notch on the bottom right corner of the camera module.

Gently pry up to lever the camera out of the iPhone.

Step 67

Remove the rear-facing camera module.

Remove the rear-facing camera module.

Step 68

              Bottom Right Screen Retainer

Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw securing the cellular antenna cable to the screen retainer.
Bend the antenna cable away from the side of the case to allow access to the screws securing the retainer to the side of the case.

Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw securing the cellular antenna cable to the screen retainer.

Bend the antenna cable away from the side of the case to allow access to the screws securing the retainer to the side of the case.

Step 69

Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the screen retainer.
Remove the retainer.

Remove the three 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the screen retainer.

Remove the retainer.

Step 70

              Lightning Connector

Remove the 2.3 mm stand-off screw holding the barometric vent.
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.
Remove the barometric vent.

Remove the 2.3 mm stand-off screw holding the barometric vent.

Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Remove the barometric vent.

Step 71

Remove two 2.6 mm stand-off screws securing the Lightning connector to the back of the case.
Remove two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the charging port to the bottom of the case.

Remove two 2.6 mm stand-off screws securing the Lightning connector to the back of the case.

Remove two 2.9 mm Phillips screws holding the charging port to the bottom of the case.

Step 72

To soften the adhesive holding the flex cable to the case, heat it with a hot air gun or a hair dryer, or heat the back of the case with an iOpener.
Peel up the dock connector cable with a spudger.

To soften the adhesive holding the flex cable to the case, heat it with a hot air gun or a hair dryer, or heat the back of the case with an iOpener.

Peel up the dock connector cable with a spudger.

Step 73

Continue peeling up the dock connector.

Continue peeling up the dock connector.

Step 74

Remove the dock connector.

Remove the dock connector.

Step 75

              Interconnect Cable

After removing the Lightning connector, the only thing holding the interconnect cable to the case is adhesive.
To soften the adhesive holding the flex cable to the case, heat it with a hot air gun or a hair dryer, or heat the back of the case with an iOpener.

After removing the Lightning connector, the only thing holding the interconnect cable to the case is adhesive.

Step 76

Peel off the cable with a spudger.

Peel off the cable with a spudger.

Step 77

Remove the interconnect cable.

Remove the interconnect cable.

Step 78

              Upper Right Screen Retainer

Peel up the end of the dock connector to clear access to the power button and screen retainer.
Bend the dock connector up and out of the way.

Peel up the end of the dock connector to clear access to the power button and screen retainer.

Bend the dock connector up and out of the way.

Step 79

Remove the two screws holding the screen retaining clip.
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw.
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw.
Remove the screen retainer.
When reassembling the retainer, be sure to slide it behind the black plastic piece on the end opposite the power button.

Remove the two screws holding the screen retaining clip.

One 1.9 mm Phillips screw.

Remove the screen retainer.

When reassembling the retainer, be sure to slide it behind the black plastic piece on the end opposite the power button.

Step 80

              Power Button and Flash Cable

Remove the remaining 2.0 mm Phillips screw securing the power button.

Remove the remaining 2.0 mm Phillips screw securing the power button.

Step 81

Peel the flex cable from the frame.

Peel the flex cable from the frame.

Step 82

With a spudger, pry out the flash and microphone.
Remove the assembly.

With a spudger, pry out the flash and microphone.

Remove the assembly.

Step 83

              Volume Button Assembly

Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the grounding tab.
Remove the grounding tab.
Note the orientation of the tab and be sure to place it correctly during reassembly.

Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the grounding tab.

Note the orientation of the tab and be sure to place it correctly during reassembly.

Step 84

Remove the six screws securing the buttons.
Two 1.5 mm Phillips.
Two 1.9 mm Phillips.
One 2.4 mm Phillips.
One 1.7 mm Phillips.

Remove the six screws securing the buttons.

Two 1.5 mm Phillips.

Two 1.9 mm Phillips.

One 2.4 mm Phillips.

One 1.7 mm Phillips.

Step 85

Disengage the ring/silent switch from the side of the case.
Use a spudger to peel the flex cable from the bottom of the case.

Disengage the ring/silent switch from the side of the case.

Use a spudger to peel the flex cable from the bottom of the case.

Step 86

Heating the case with an iOpener or the cable with a hot air gun or hair dryer will help soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.
Peel off the button cable.
If you are planning on reusing the button / charging coil assembly, use extreme care when removing this cable. It is extremely thin and very fragile. Work slowly and carefully and put as little stress on the cable as possible.
Hold on to the cable with tweezers while lifting and sliding the spudger between the cable and the case.

Heating the case with an iOpener or the cable with a hot air gun or hair dryer will help soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

Peel off the button cable.

If you are planning on reusing the button / charging coil assembly, use extreme care when removing this cable. It is extremely thin and very fragile. Work slowly and carefully and put as little stress on the cable as possible.

Hold on to the cable with tweezers while lifting and sliding the spudger between the cable and the case.

Step 87

              Charging Pad / Volume Button Assembly

Heat the back of the phone with an iOpener or the coil with a hot air gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.
Peel off the wireless charging coil.

Heat the back of the phone with an iOpener or the coil with a hot air gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

Peel off the wireless charging coil.

Step 88

Remove the assembly.

Step 89

              Move the Ring/Silent Switch

If you are replacing the button assembly, you will need to transfer the ring/silent switch from the old assembly to the new one.
See the iPhone X Power and Audio Exterior Buttons guide for instructions on how to remove the exterior switch from the button assembly.

If you are replacing the button assembly, you will need to transfer the ring/silent switch from the old assembly to the new one.

See the iPhone X Power and Audio Exterior Buttons guide for instructions on how to remove the exterior switch from the button assembly.

Step 90

              WiFi Antenna

Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the first grounding tab.
Remove the grounding tab.
Note the orientation of the tab and be sure to place it correctly during reassembly.

Remove the 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the first grounding tab.

Step 91

Remove four 1.5 mm Phillips screws.

Remove four 1.5 mm Phillips screws.

Step 92

Remove two 1.1 mm Y000 screws.
Remove the two grounding tabs.
Note the orientation of the tabs and be sure to place them correctly during reassembly.

Remove two 1.1 mm Y000 screws.

Remove the two grounding tabs.

Note the orientation of the tabs and be sure to place them correctly during reassembly.

Step 93

Heat the back of the case with an iOpener, or the WiFi antenna with a hot air gun or hair dryer.
Peel the WiFi antenna from the case with a spudger.

Heat the back of the case with an iOpener, or the WiFi antenna with a hot air gun or hair dryer.

Peel the WiFi antenna from the case with a spudger.

Step 94

Remove the WiFi antenna.

Remove the WiFi antenna.

Step 95

              Bluetooth Antenna

Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna to the rear camera frame.
Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna to the case.

Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna to the rear camera frame.

Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna to the case.

Step 96

Lift the end of the cable off the post on the back of the case.
Peel the cable from the rear camera housing with a spudger.
Remove the bluetooth antenna.

Lift the end of the cable off the post on the back of the case.

Peel the cable from the rear camera housing with a spudger.

Remove the bluetooth antenna.

Step 97

              Front Panel Screen Retainers

Remove the four 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the two left side screen retainer clips.
Remove the two retainers.

Remove the four 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the two left side screen retainer clips.

Remove the two retainers.

Step 98

              Remove the Ring/Silent Switch

Flip the switch to the left.
Grasp the upper arm of the switch with fine tip tweezers and slide it down to clear the retainer.
Lift the end up and slide it out from the other side.
On reassembly, the orange stripe should be on the top side as pictured here.

Flip the switch to the left.

Grasp the upper arm of the switch with fine tip tweezers and slide it down to clear the retainer.

Lift the end up and slide it out from the other side.

On reassembly, the orange stripe should be on the top side as pictured here.

Step 99

              Remove the Button Spring Clips

Before you start trying to take these apart, go watch this video mentioned in the introduction. Removing these buttons is tricky and frustrating, so study the video carefully and try and follow iPhoneRepairGirl’s instructions as exactly as you can.
While removing the spring clips and retainers, it is helpful to keep a finger on the outside of the button to keep it as far inside the frame as possible.
Flip the spring clip up 90 degrees.

Before you start trying to take these apart, go watch this video mentioned in the introduction. Removing these buttons is tricky and frustrating, so study the video carefully and try and follow iPhoneRepairGirl’s instructions as exactly as you can.

While removing the spring clips and retainers, it is helpful to keep a finger on the outside of the button to keep it as far inside the frame as possible.

Flip the spring clip up 90 degrees.

Step 100

Grasp one end of the spring clip with a pair of tweezers.
Firmly pull on the end of the clip until it is free of the button.
Swing the clip out slightly from the button.
Slide the clip back the opposite direction to free the other end.
Remove the spring clip.
Repeat for the volume up and down buttons.

Grasp one end of the spring clip with a pair of tweezers.

Firmly pull on the end of the clip until it is free of the button.

Swing the clip out slightly from the button.

Slide the clip back the opposite direction to free the other end.

Remove the spring clip.

Repeat for the volume up and down buttons.

Step 101

              Remove the Button Retaining Plate

Pry the right side of the retainer up about 20 degrees.
Pull the retainer straight out away from the button.
Rinse and repeat.
When reassembling the retainers, make sure the retainer is all the way down; the gap at the bottom should be even across the length of the button.

Pry the right side of the retainer up about 20 degrees.

Pull the retainer straight out away from the button.

Rinse and repeat.

When reassembling the retainers, make sure the retainer is all the way down; the gap at the bottom should be even across the length of the button.

Step 102

              Remove the Volume and Power Buttons

If you can’t get hold of the button from the outside of the case, push the pins out from the inside.
Remove the button.
Repeat for the remaining buttons.
Before attempting to reassemble the buttons, go watch the video again. If you thought it was a pain to take them apart, wait until you try to put them back together. Be patient and work carefully and they’ll eventually fit.

If you can’t get hold of the button from the outside of the case, push the pins out from the inside.

Remove the button.

Repeat for the remaining buttons.

Before attempting to reassemble the buttons, go watch the video again. If you thought it was a pain to take them apart, wait until you try to put them back together. Be patient and work carefully and they’ll eventually fit.

Step 103

              Rear Case

The case has been stripped completely of all parts. You can now replace them into a new case.

The case has been stripped completely of all parts. You can now replace them into a new case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Jerry W

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Introduction

What you need