Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
62
Time Required
1 - 3 hours
Sections
11
- SIM Card Tray
- 1 step
- Pentalobe Screws
- 1 step
- How to open the iPhone SE 2022 for repairs
- 9 steps
- How to Disconnect the Battery in the iPhone SE 2022
- 3 steps
- How to Remove the Display Assembly iPhone SE 2022
- 5 steps
- Wi-Fi Diversity Antenna
- 6 steps
- Taptic Engine
- 5 steps
- Barometric Vent
- 2 steps
- How to disconnect the Logic Board in the iPhone SE 2022
- 16 steps
- Logic Board
- 2 steps
- Lightning Connector Assembly
- 12 steps
Flags
0
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Introduction
This guide was performed on the A2783 (international) model.
If you do not replace the adhesive seals when reassembling, your device will function normally, but will most likely lose its water protection.
You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.
What you need
Step 1
SIM Card Tray Removal
- Insert a SIM card eject tool, a SIM eject bit, or a straightened paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray located at the right edge of the phone.
- Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
- Remove the SIM card tray.
Insert a SIM card eject tool, a SIM eject bit, or a straightened paper clip into the hole on the SIM tray located at the right edge of the phone.
Press directly into the hole to eject the SIM card tray.
Remove the SIM card tray.
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Step 2
Remove the pentalobe screws
- Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
- Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Power off your phone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Step 3
Heat the front panel adhesive
- Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
- A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the screen for at least two minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.
Step 4
Insert an opening pick
- Secure a suction handle to the lower half of the front panel, as close to the home button as possible.
- If the rear glass is cracked, the suction handle may not stick. Try lifting it with strong tape, or superglue the suction handle in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.
- Lift the front panel with the suction handle to create a small gap between the front panel and the frame.
- If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the bottom half of the screen to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
- Insert an opening pick into the gap you created.
Secure a suction handle to the lower half of the front panel, as close to the home button as possible.
If the rear glass is cracked, the suction handle may not stick. Try lifting it with strong tape, or superglue the suction handle in place and allow it to cure so you can proceed.
Lift the front panel with the suction handle to create a small gap between the front panel and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to the bottom half of the screen to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap you created.
Step 5
Slice the adhesive
- Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the front panel adhesive.
- Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.
- Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
- Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom right corner to slice the front panel adhesive.
Insert a second opening pick at the bottom edge of your phone.
Slide the opening pick to the bottom left corner to slice the adhesive.
Leave the opening picks in place to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Step 6
Slice the adhesive
- If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener for two to three minutes to reheat it.
- Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
- Stop near the top left corner of the display.
- Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
If the adhesive becomes hard to cut, it has most likely cooled down. Use your iOpener for two to three minutes to reheat it.
Slide the bottom left opening pick along the left edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
Step 7
- When you slice along the right edge, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~ 2–3 mm) to avoid damaging the display flex cables.
- Slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
- Stop near the top right corner of the display.
When you slice along the right edge, insert only the tip of the opening pick (~ 2–3 mm) to avoid damaging the display flex cables.
Slide the bottom right opening pick along the right edge of your phone to slice the adhesive.
Stop near the top right corner of the display.
Step 8
Lift the screen
- Remove the opening picks.
- Gently pull up on the suction handle to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
- Do not raise the display more than 15º or you’ll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
- Remove the suction handle.
Remove the opening picks.
Gently pull up on the suction handle to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
Do not raise the display more than 15º or you’ll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
Remove the suction handle.
Step 9
Slice the remaining adhesive
- Slide an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the display.
- Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.
Slide an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the display.
Slide the opening pick around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to slice the remaining adhesive.
Step 10
Disengage the front panel clips
- Slide the display assembly slightly down in direction of the charging port to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Slide the display assembly slightly down in direction of the charging port to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Step 11
Lift up the display
- Open the phone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
- Don’t try to fully separate the display from the phone assembly yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the logic board.
- Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
Open the phone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display from the phone assembly yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
Step 12
Unfasten the lower display cable bracket screws
- Remove the four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket:
- Two 1.2 mm-long screws
- Two 2.8 mm-long screws
- Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.
Remove the four Phillips screws securing the lower display cable bracket:
Two 1.2 mm-long screws
Two 2.8 mm-long screws
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.
Step 13
Remove the lower display cable bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the lower display cable bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the lower display cable bracket.
Step 14
Disconnect the battery
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the battery by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 15
Disconnect the display and digitizer cables
- The display and digitizer cables run on top of each other. To avoid cable damage always start by disconnecting the upper cable first and never try to disconnect both at the same time.
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom two display cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
- To re-attach press connectors like this, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
The display and digitizer cables run on top of each other. To avoid cable damage always start by disconnecting the upper cable first and never try to disconnect both at the same time.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the bottom two display cables by prying the connectors straight up from their sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this, press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 16
Unfasten the front sensor assembly bracket screws
- Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front sensor assembly bracket.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.2 mm-long screws securing the front sensor assembly bracket.
Step 17
Remove the front sensor assembly bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the front sensor assembly bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the front sensor assembly bracket.
Step 18
Disconnect the front sensor assembly cable
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 19
Remove the display assembly
- Remove the display assembly.
Remove the display assembly.
Step 20
Unfasten the Lightning connector bracket screws
- Unfasten the three screws securing the Lighting connector bracket:
- One 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw
- One 2.7 mm-long Phillips screw
- One 2.9 mm-long Phillips screws
Unfasten the three screws securing the Lighting connector bracket:
One 1.2 mm-long Y000 screw
One 2.7 mm-long Phillips screw
One 2.9 mm-long Phillips screws
Step 21
Remove the Lightning connector bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Lightning connector bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Lightning connector bracket.
Step 22
Loosen the Wi-Fi diversity antenna flex cable
- Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.
- This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered to the speaker. If you’re struggling to separate the cable from the speaker, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.
Carefully slide an opening pick between the antenna flex cable and the top of the speaker.
This portion of the flex cable is lightly adhered to the speaker. If you’re struggling to separate the cable from the speaker, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the flex cable safely.
Step 23
Disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna by prying its connector straight up from its socket.
- The socket of this connector sits loosely between the speaker and the Taptic Engine and it’s a bit fiddly to disconnect the cable. To make the disconnection easier, you can use an opening pick to hold down the connector socket during this procedure.
- Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna by prying its connector straight up from its socket.
The socket of this connector sits loosely between the speaker and the Taptic Engine and it’s a bit fiddly to disconnect the cable. To make the disconnection easier, you can use an opening pick to hold down the connector socket during this procedure.
Reconnecting this cable can be tricky. Make it easier by using tweezers to hold the flex cable so the connector aligns with its socket. Then, gently press straight down on the connector with the flat of your spudger until it clicks into place.
Step 24
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna from the logic board by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Wi-Fi diversity antenna from the logic board by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 25
Remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the Wi-Fi diversity antenna.
Step 26
Unfasten the Taptic Engine screws
- Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
- One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
- One 2.1 mm standoff screw
- Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
- In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.
Remove the two screws securing the Taptic Engine:
One 2.1 mm Phillips screw
One 2.1 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.
Step 27
Remove the grounding bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the grounding bracket at the left edge of the Taptic Engine.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the grounding bracket at the left edge of the Taptic Engine.
Step 28
Pry the antenna cable socket
- Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the Taptic Engine connector below.
Use the pointed end of your spudger to pry the antenna cable socket up and away from the Taptic Engine connector below.
Step 29
Disconnect the Taptic Engine
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 30
Remove the Taptic Engine
- Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the Taptic Engine.
Use a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the Taptic Engine.
Step 31
Unfasten the barometric vent screws
- Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent:
- One 1.9 mm-long Phillips screw
- One 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
Remove the two screws securing the barometric vent:
One 1.9 mm-long Phillips screw
One 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
Step 32
Remove the barometric vent
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the barometric vent.
- The barometric vent is lightly adhered to the rear case. If you’re struggling to separate the vent from the case, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the barometric vent safely.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the barometric vent.
The barometric vent is lightly adhered to the rear case. If you’re struggling to separate the vent from the case, apply a little heat from an iOpener or hair dryer to soften the adhesive. This will make it easier to separate the barometric vent safely.
Step 33
Disconnect the rear camera
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 34
Unfasten the rear camera bracket screws
- Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
- One 3.0 mm-long standoff screw
- Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
- In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.
- One 3.1 mm-long Phillips screw
Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:
One 3.0 mm-long standoff screw
One 3.1 mm-long Phillips screw
Step 35
Remove the rear camera bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear camera bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the rear camera bracket.
Step 36
Disconnect the flash
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the flash by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the flash by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 37
Unfasten the upper cable bracket screws
- Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:
- One 2.8 mm-long Phillips screw
- One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw
Remove the two screws securing the upper cable bracket:
One 2.8 mm-long Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw
Step 38
Remove the upper cable bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the upper cable bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the upper cable bracket.
Step 39
Disconnect the upper flex cable
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the upper flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the upper flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 40
Unfasten the top left antenna component screws
- Unfasten the three 1.2 mm-long Phillips screws securing the top left antenna component.
- Don’t try to remove the antenna component yet. There’s a fourth screw securing it to the rear case.
Unfasten the three 1.2 mm-long Phillips screws securing the top left antenna component.
Don’t try to remove the antenna component yet. There’s a fourth screw securing it to the rear case.
Step 41
- Unfasten the 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.
Unfasten the 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.
Step 42
Remove the top left antenna component
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left antenna component.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left antenna component.
Step 43
Unfasten the grounding bracket screws
- Unfasten the two screws securing the top left grounding bracket:
- One 1.5 mm-long Phillips screw
- One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw
Unfasten the two screws securing the top left grounding bracket:
One 1.5 mm-long Phillips screw
One 1.2 mm-long Phillips screw
Step 44
Remove the top left grounding bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left grounding bracket.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the top left grounding bracket.
Step 45
Unfasten the logic board screws
- Unfasten the four screws securing the logic board:
- One 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
- One partially threaded 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
- This screw is covered by protective foam surrounding the rear camera connector. Use a pair of tweezers to peel just enough foam off to unfasten the screw.
- One 2.5 mm-long standoff screw
- One 2.2 mm-long standoff screw
Unfasten the four screws securing the logic board:
One partially threaded 1.7 mm-long Phillips screw
This screw is covered by protective foam surrounding the rear camera connector. Use a pair of tweezers to peel just enough foam off to unfasten the screw.
One 2.5 mm-long standoff screw
One 2.2 mm-long standoff screw
Step 46
Pry up the logic board grounding bracket
- Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pry up the logic board grounding bracket in the top right corner of the rear case.
Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pry up the logic board grounding bracket in the top right corner of the rear case.
Step 47
Position the SIM card eject plunger
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board’s way by pushing it to the right edge of the rear case.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board’s way by pushing it to the right edge of the rear case.
Step 48
Disconnect the Lightning port and the wireless charging coil cable
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning port cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wireless charging coil cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Lightning port cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the wireless charging coil cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Step 49
Pry up the logic board
- Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the battery connector end of the logic board.
- Be careful not to pry against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the battery connector end of the logic board.
Be careful not to pry against any cables. If you feel resistance, check that all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.
Step 50
Remove the logic board
- Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.
- Make sure that none of the surrounding cables are tangled with the logic board or blocking its way.
Grasping it by the edges, lift the logic board near the battery connector and remove it.
Make sure that none of the surrounding cables are tangled with the logic board or blocking its way.
Step 51
Unfasten the loudspeaker screws
- Unfasten the two screws securing the loudspeaker:
- One 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw
- One 2.1 mm-long Phillips screw
Unfasten the two screws securing the loudspeaker:
One 1.4 mm-long Phillips screw
One 2.1 mm-long Phillips screw
Step 52
Remove the loudspeaker
- Use a pair of tweezers to remove the loudspeaker.
Use a pair of tweezers to remove the loudspeaker.
Step 53
Unfasten the Lightning connector assembly screws
- Unfasten the five screws securing the lighting connector to the rear case:
- One 1.3 mm-long Phillips screw
- Two 2.3 mm-long Phillips screws
- Two 1.4 mm-long Phillips screws
Unfasten the five screws securing the lighting connector to the rear case:
One 1.3 mm-long Phillips screw
Two 2.3 mm-long Phillips screws
Two 1.4 mm-long Phillips screws
Step 54
Free the microphones
- Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the two microphones on the left and right of the Lightning connector free from the adhesive securing them in place.
- Don’t try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.
Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently pry the two microphones on the left and right of the Lightning connector free from the adhesive securing them in place.
Don’t try to completely remove the microphones; just separate the adhesive as shown.
Step 55
Loosen the charging port assembly adhesive
- Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the rear case to loosen the charging port assembly adhesive, angling it as shown.
Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom of the rear case to loosen the charging port assembly adhesive, angling it as shown.
Step 56
Separate the Lightning connector assembly cable
- Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case.
- Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.
- If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to further soften its adhesive.
- Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.
- Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it.
- Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
- Stop sliding the pick once it passes the lower edge of the battery.
Slide an opening pick underneath the top portion of the Lightning connector assembly flex cable, and begin separating the cable from the rear case.
Part of the wireless charging coil lies directly underneath this portion of the Lightning connector flex cable. Aggressive prying may damage the coil.
If needed, use your hair dryer or iOpener repeatedly to re-heat the area behind the Lightning connector assembly flex cable in order to further soften its adhesive.
Continue separating the upper portion of the flex cable, being careful not to damage any other components along the way.
Keep the battery connector gently folded out of the way to avoid damaging it.
Be very careful not to damage the battery itself. A punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
Stop sliding the pick once it passes the lower edge of the battery.
Step 57
- Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector.
- Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.
Starting at the corner of the phone, slide the pick underneath the cable towards the Lightning connector.
Stop sliding the pick when it reaches the Lightning connector.
Step 58
- Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its recess in the rear case.
- Don’t try to remove the lightning connector assembly all the way yet. It is still partly adhered to the rear case.
Gently pull the Lightning connector out of its recess in the rear case.
Don’t try to remove the lightning connector assembly all the way yet. It is still partly adhered to the rear case.
Step 59
- Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.
- Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.
- Don’t try to remove the lightning connector assembly all the way yet. A last bit is still adhered to the left edge of the rear case.
Slide an opening pick below the Lightning connector to further separate the assembly from the rear case.
Continue to slide the pick until the Lightning connector assembly is no longer adhered to the bottom of the rear case.
Don’t try to remove the lightning connector assembly all the way yet. A last bit is still adhered to the left edge of the rear case.
Step 60
- Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the rear case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.
Slide an opening pick between the left edge of the rear case and the remaining adhered section of the Lightning assembly.
Step 61
Remove the Lightning connector assembly
- Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
- Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:
- Remove any remaining adhesive, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
- Before removing the adhesive backing on a new assembly, make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned by aligning the hole in the flex cable with the screw post. If the cable is misaligned, you won’t be able to reconnect it to the logic board.
Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
Before installing or replacing the Lightning connector assembly:
Remove any remaining adhesive, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.
Before removing the adhesive backing on a new assembly, make sure the Lightning connector assembly is correctly positioned by aligning the hole in the flex cable with the screw post. If the cable is misaligned, you won’t be able to reconnect it to the logic board.
Step 62
Transferring and replacing remaining components
- A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.
- The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
- Check if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn’t, use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.
A rubber gasket on the bottom of the Lightning connector protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. If you are installing a new Lightning connector assembly, you may need to carefully remove and transfer the gasket to the new part.
The small adhesive patch on the bottom of each microphone also protects your iPhone from liquid and dust intrusion. For best results, replace the two adhesive patches before installing your Lightning connector assembly.
Check if your new part comes with an antenna converter cable. If it doesn’t, use the pointed end of your spudger to pry up and transfer the cable from your old Lightning assembly to the new one.
If possible, turn on your device and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer other remaining components or remove additional adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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