Iphone 7 Logic Board Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 3 hours

Sections

Pentalobe Screws
1 step
iPhone 7 Opening Procedure
10 steps
Battery Disconnection
3 steps
Display Assembly
4 steps
SIM Card
1 step
Logic Board Connectors
13 steps
Logic Board
7 steps

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Introduction

It’s important to note that each iPhone’s logic board and Touch ID fingerprint sensor are paired at the factory, so replacing the logic board will disable Touch ID unless you also install a replacement home button that has been properly paired to your new logic board.

What you need

Video Overview

Step 1

              Pentalobe Screws

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

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Step 2

              iPhone 7 Opening Procedure

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 3

Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.

Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 4

Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

Step 5

Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.

Step 6

Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.
Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.

Do not pry along the top edge of the phone, you risk damaging the plastic clips securing the display.

Step 7

Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

Insert the flat edge of a spudger into the bottom right corner of the device.

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.

Do not insert the spudger further than the adhesive to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables along the right edge.

Step 8

Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.
Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

Step 9

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 10

Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.
Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.

Be careful not to damage the plastic clips on the top edge of the phone.

Step 11

Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.

Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.

Step 12

              Battery Disconnection

Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 2.4 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:

Three 1.2 mm screws

One 2.4 mm screw

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Step 13

Remove the lower connector bracket.

Remove the lower connector bracket.

Step 14

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Step 15

              Display Assembly

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

Step 16

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product’s lifecycle.

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.

Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product’s lifecycle.

Step 17

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Step 18

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 19

              SIM Card

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
Press to eject the tray.
This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.
Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.
When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

Press to eject the tray.

This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.

Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.

When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Step 20

              Logic Board Connectors

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

Step 21

Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.5 mm screw

Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:

One 1.3 mm screw

One 2.5 mm screw

Step 22

Remove the bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Step 23

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

Step 24

Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

Step 25

Remove the upper cable bracket.

Remove the upper cable bracket.

Step 26

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

Step 27

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 1.7 mm screw

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:

One 1.7 mm screw

Step 28

Remove the top left antenna.

Remove the top left antenna.

Step 29

Remove the following Phillips screws:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.2 mm screw

Remove the following Phillips screws:

One 2.2 mm screw

Step 30

Step 31

Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.

Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 32

Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

Step 33

              Logic Board

Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

Step 34

Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

Step 35

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

Step 36

Remove the following screws:
One 1.4 mm Phillips screw
Three 2.2 mm standoff screws
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff driver.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Remove the following screws:

One 1.4 mm Phillips screw

Three 2.2 mm standoff screws

Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff driver.

Step 37

Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board’s way.

Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board’s way.

Step 38

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.
Make sure you’re not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.

Make sure you’re not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

Step 39

Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.
Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.

Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Evan Noronha

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Steve - Sep 13, 2017

I had an accident where my iphone has got some damage (cracked screen, metal frame slightly bent).. I can see a lot of iCloud locked devices for sale, some of them for a cheap price. Would replacing the logic board and home button give me a non-damaged working phone? Or what parts would need to be moved for this? Sure I can buy a brand new phone but I like a bit of a challenge :)

Vegas Uprising - Nov 24, 2017

the logic board holds the OS, so yes if you were to replace the mother board of the iPhone it should work like a new phone but without touch id

alexandros papadopoulos - Sep 15, 2018

I have the same idea and i found to buy this one

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-iPho…

You think it will work?

muhammed faisal - Jan 13, 2018

Hi,

I’ve got a problem with my iphone7. I just took some videos under the water using my iphone. But later it’s finger id has gone and it’s fully damaged. Now the phone is not working. Is there any option to repair this ….?

Adam O’Camb - Jan 15, 2018

Hi Muhammed, sounds like some water got inside your phone. Check out our iPhone liquid damage guide for some basic troubleshooting you can do on your own. When you have the phone open check connectors and pins on the board for any corrosion. If the damage is serious enough that cleaning won’t fix it, you can take your phone to a local repair shop for more extensive repairs.

Introduction#

What you need#

Video Overview#

Introduction

What you need

Video Overview