Iphone 6S Upper Component Cable Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 3 hours

Sections

Pentalobe Screws
1 step
Opening Procedure
11 steps
Battery Connector
4 steps
Front Panel Assembly
6 steps
Rear Camera
5 steps
SIM Tray
2 steps
Logic Board
15 steps
Upper Component Cable
14 steps

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Introduction

You can also use this guide to replace the following parts:

Flash BracketUpper Component Bracket

What you need

Step 1

              Pentalobe Screws

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector.

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Step 2

              Opening Procedure

Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Optionally, apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.

Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Step 3

Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It’s possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won’t notice any difference in functionality.
Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Opening the display on the 6s separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It’s possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won’t notice any difference in functionality.

Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.

Take care not to place the suction cup over the home button.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 4

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.
Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it’s slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices and is held down with adhesive.

Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

If you have any trouble, heat the front of the iPhone using an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun until it’s slightly too hot to touch. This will help soften the adhesive securing the edges of the display.

Step 5

There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.
Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

There is a notch on the underside of the display, just above the headphone jack. This is the safest place to begin prying the phone open.

Place the flat edge of a spudger into the gap between the screen and rear case, directly above the headphone jack.

Step 6

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel assembly and the rest of the phone.

Step 7

Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.
Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

Insert the flat end of the spudger on the left side of the phone, between the display assembly and rear case.

Slide the spudger up the side of the phone to separate the adhesive and pop the clips free.

Step 8

Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.
Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Remove the spudger and reinsert it on the bottom edge, where you pried the phone open.

Slide the spudger to the right, along the bottom edge of the phone.

Step 9

Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Slide the spudger up the right side to continue separating the adhesive and popping the display clips free from the iPhone.

Step 10

Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.
Don’t open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Use the suction cup to open the display, breaking the last of the adhesive.

Don’t open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.

Step 11

Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Pull up on the nub on the top side of the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 12

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Step 13

              Battery Connector

Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:
One 2.9 mm screw
One 2.2 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket, of the following lengths:

One 2.9 mm screw

One 2.2 mm screw

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Step 14

Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Remove the battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Step 15

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Step 16

Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

Push the battery connector away from the logic board until it stays separated from its socket, so as to avoid any accidental connection to the battery while you work.

Step 17

              Front Panel Assembly

Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 2.8 mm screw

Remove the following four Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket:

Three 1.2 mm screws

One 2.8 mm screw

Step 18

Remove the display cable bracket.

Remove the display cable bracket.

Step 19

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the front camera flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 20

Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Step 21

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

Disconnect the display cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 22

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 23

              Rear Camera

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera from its socket on the logic board.

Step 24

Remove the following two Phillips screws over the rear camera bracket:
One 1.6 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw

Remove the following two Phillips screws over the rear camera bracket:

One 1.6 mm screw

One 2.0 mm screw

Step 25

Remove the camera bracket.

Remove the camera bracket.

Step 26

Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module.
Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.

Insert a spudger to the side of the camera, between the rear case and the camera module.

Gently pry up on the camera to nudge it out from its housing.

Step 27

Remove the camera.

Remove the camera.

Step 28

              SIM Tray

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
Press to eject the tray.
This may require a significant amount of force.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

Press to eject the tray.

This may require a significant amount of force.

Step 29

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Step 30

              Logic Board

Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.

Remove the two 2.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper component cable connector bracket.

Step 31

Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.

Remove the upper component cable connector bracket.

Step 32

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna:
Two 1.5mm screws
One 2.3 mm screw
One 1.9 mm screw
One 2.0 mm screw

Remove the following five Phillips screws securing the top left Wi-Fi antenna:

Two 1.5mm screws

One 2.3 mm screw

One 1.9 mm screw

Step 33

Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.

Remove the top left Wi-Fi antenna.

Step 34

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable from its socket on the logic board.

Step 35

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the upper right corner of the logic board.

Step 36

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable from its socket on the lower left corner of the logic board.

Step 37

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning connector ribbon cable. Lift up to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

Step 38

Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.

Gently pull up on the antenna cable to de-route it from the two clips on the right side of the logic board.

Step 39

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the NFC bracket to the logic board.

Step 40

Remove the NFC bracket.

Remove the NFC bracket.

Step 41

Remove the following two Phillips screws:
One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board
One 1.4 mm screw set into the upper edge of the rear case

Remove the following two Phillips screws:

One 2.5 mm screw at the top of the logic board

One 1.4 mm screw set into the upper edge of the rear case

Step 42

Remove the plastic clip.

Remove the plastic clip.

Step 43

Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw
One 2.5 mm hex nut
One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

Remove the final three screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

One 2.5 mm hex nut

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

Step 44

Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker.
Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing.
Remove the logic board.

Insert an opening pick below the lower edge of the logic board, between the board and the loudspeaker.

Use the opening pick to gently lift the logic board out of its housing.

Remove the logic board.

Step 45

              Upper Component Cable

Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.
Remove the Taptic Engine.

Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws holding the Taptic Engine in place.

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 46

Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery.

Use tweezers to peel up the tips of the battery adhesive strips at the lower edge of the battery.

Step 47

Try not to wrinkle the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.
Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone.
For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue to pull steadily, re-grabbing the strip closer to the iPhone if necessary.
Continue pulling until the strip is fully removed.
If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.
If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then skip to Step 48.

Try not to wrinkle the strips during this procedure—they will become very difficult to deal with and will not straighten out again.

Pull one of the adhesive strips straight out, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue to pull steadily, re-grabbing the strip closer to the iPhone if necessary.

Continue pulling until the strip is fully removed.

If the battery adhesive tabs break off at any point during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

If one of the adhesive strips breaks under the battery during this procedure, and cannot be retrieved, remove the remaining strip, and then skip to Step 48.

Step 48

Repeat the previous step for the second adhesive strip.
Use one hand to hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery from the phone once it separates from the rear case.

Repeat the previous step for the second adhesive strip.

Use one hand to hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery from the phone once it separates from the rear case.

Step 49

If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.
After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

If you successfully removed all three adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.

Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.

After about a minute, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.

Step 50

Remove the battery.
When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery’s adhesive strips.

Remove the battery.

When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery’s adhesive strips.

Step 51

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the flash bracket.
Remove the flash bracket.

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the flash bracket.

Remove the flash bracket.

Step 52

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the flash out of its housing in the rear case.

Step 53

Remove the following five Phillips screws:
Two 2.5 mm screws set into the left edge of the rear case
One 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw set into the left edge of the rear case
Two 2.1 mm screws set into the right edge of the rear case
If you overtighten these screws during reassembly, your power and volume buttons may not click properly. Check the clicking action on each button before you continue with reassembly.

Remove the following five Phillips screws:

Two 2.5 mm screws set into the left edge of the rear case

One 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw set into the left edge of the rear case

Two 2.1 mm screws set into the right edge of the rear case

If you overtighten these screws during reassembly, your power and volume buttons may not click properly. Check the clicking action on each button before you continue with reassembly.

Step 54

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case.

Use the pointed tip of a spudger to gently separate the microphone from the rear case.

Step 55

Slide an opening pick between the upper component cable and the rear case.
Gently separate the cable from the rear case.

Slide an opening pick between the upper component cable and the rear case.

Gently separate the cable from the rear case.

Step 56

Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case.

Continue pushing the opening pick under the cable until it fully separates from the rear case.

Step 57

Remove the upper component cable assembly.

Remove the upper component cable assembly.

Step 58

If your replacement part did not come with the mute switch cover, you will need to remove the switch cover and transfer It.
Use the flat end of the spudger to press down and hold the old bracket firmly in place.
Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully rock the switch cover such that the switch cover pins swing out of their clips.
Lift the switch cover straight up.
To install the mute switch cover onto the new upper cable assembly, reverse the steps.
The pins are supposed to rest near the clip opening. Do no attempt to force the pins far into the clips. The switch cover will be held securely in place once you screw the bracket back onto the case.
The switch cover goes on in only one orientation. If you are having a hard time getting the switch cover onto the new part, try toggling the switch so that the black protruding lever is in a different position.
Before reassembling the phone, check all switches and buttons to see if they physically work.

If your replacement part did not come with the mute switch cover, you will need to remove the switch cover and transfer It.

Use the flat end of the spudger to press down and hold the old bracket firmly in place.

Use tweezers or your fingers to carefully rock the switch cover such that the switch cover pins swing out of their clips.

Lift the switch cover straight up.

To install the mute switch cover onto the new upper cable assembly, reverse the steps.

The pins are supposed to rest near the clip opening. Do no attempt to force the pins far into the clips. The switch cover will be held securely in place once you screw the bracket back onto the case.

The switch cover goes on in only one orientation. If you are having a hard time getting the switch cover onto the new part, try toggling the switch so that the black protruding lever is in a different position.

Before reassembling the phone, check all switches and buttons to see if they physically work.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Evan Noronha

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Jeremy Dumitrache - May 28, 2016

Does anyone know where the secondary cell antenna is located on the 6S, it’s easily visible on the 6S plus.

Is it under the top wifi antenna, built into the board?

Or at step 41 removing a ‘plastic clip’ which I thought could be the gps antenna

mrctony - Oct 8, 2016

Great guide…very helpful.

Matt Harmon - Jun 24, 2017

I had a question about the last step. Mine Upper component cable appears to be attached to the brackets that hold it in place. They appear to have very small spot welds which i cannot remove. It looks like the new cable should wrap around the brackets with an adhesive but i cant seem to get the brackets off of the old cable. Why doesn’t the new cable come with those brackets attached? Or was i supposed to order those as separate pieces?

paulchai - Mar 6, 2018

This instruction help me so much while fixing phone 6s every pictures in every steps are clear and better than watching video tutorial especially every screw size, thank so much

Doug Barker - Jun 10, 2018

Good guide. Should have mentioned that buying the replacement cable WITH the brackets and switch attached is necessary . I bought a cable without and could not remove the mute button. Then went and bought a cable WITH the brackets and everything went together well. Phone works just fine.

Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need