Iphone 5S Power Button Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 3 hours

Sections

Front Panel Assembly
22 steps
SIM Card
2 steps
Logic Board
10 steps
Rear Facing Camera
2 steps
Camera Bracket
3 steps
Battery
8 steps
Vibrator
4 steps
Power Button
8 steps

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Introduction

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you’ll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery using a piece of double-sided tape. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

What you need

Step 1

              Removing the Pentalobe screws

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

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Step 2

              Taping the display glass

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Step 3

              Display separation prevention

In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.
Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.
If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

Step 4

              Starting the iSclack Opening Procedure

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip the next two steps.
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip the next two steps.

Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Step 5

              Finishing the iSclack Opening Procedure

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.
Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage the home button cable.

Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Step 6

              Manual Opening Procedure

If you don’t have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:
Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

If you don’t have an iSclack, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

Step 7

              Start lifting the front panel assembly

The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.
Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.
With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than on most other devices.

The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than on most other devices.

Step 8

Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.
Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
Remove the suction cup from the screen.

Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

Remove the suction cup from the screen.

Step 9

              Removing the Touch ID cable bracket

Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.
Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that’s too far.
Only the phone’s original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.
Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.
The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that’s too far.

Only the phone’s original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

Step 10

During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.
Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.

Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

Step 11

During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.
If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

Step 12

              Disconnecting the home button cable connector

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.
Be sure you’re separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren’t careful.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

Be sure you’re separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren’t careful.

Step 13

              Opening up the phone

Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Step 14

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Step 15

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Step 16

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Step 17

Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw
One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw
One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw
This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.
It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.
Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don’t force them. If they don’t fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don’t force them. If they don’t fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

Step 18

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Step 19

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

Step 20

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Disconnect the LCD cable connector.
When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

Disconnect the LCD cable connector.

When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Step 21

Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

Step 22

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Step 23

              SIM Card

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

Press to eject the tray. This may require a significant amount of force.

Step 24

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Step 25

              Logic Board

Use a spudger to gently pry the button assembly cable up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Use a spudger to gently pry the button assembly cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Step 26

Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board.
Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board.

Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Fold the Lightning connector cable out of the way of the logic board.

Step 27

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 28

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.

Step 29

Remove any tape covering the camera flash bracket.

Remove any tape covering the camera flash bracket.

Step 30

Remove the following screws from the logic board:
One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw
This screw also holds a small metal contact beneath the logic board. It’s held in place underneath a plastic bracket, but if you see it slipping out, refer to this step to remove it.
Two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws
Four 2.8 mm standoff screws
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Remove the following screws from the logic board:

One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

This screw also holds a small metal contact beneath the logic board. It’s held in place underneath a plastic bracket, but if you see it slipping out, refer to this step to remove it.

Two 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screws

Four 2.8 mm standoff screws

Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 31

Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers.

Use a plastic opening tool to lift the logic board up enough to grab with your fingers.

Step 32

Pull the logic board slightly away from the rear facing camera.
Do not try to remove the logic board just yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.
Flip the logic board toward the battery, as if you are turning the page in a book.

Pull the logic board slightly away from the rear facing camera.

Do not try to remove the logic board just yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

Flip the logic board toward the battery, as if you are turning the page in a book.

Step 33

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable on the back of the logic board.
Remove the logic board from the iPhone.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable on the back of the logic board.

Remove the logic board from the iPhone.

Step 34

At this point, a small metal plate near the rear facing camera is loose and may come free from its recess.
Because it is very small and easy to lose, it’s best to remove this plate and set it aside while you continue to work on your phone.
Use tweezers to remove the plate from beneath the bracket to the left of the rear-facing camera.
When reassembling, orient the plate with the small tab to the right and the longest flat edge against the top of the phone.

At this point, a small metal plate near the rear facing camera is loose and may come free from its recess.

Because it is very small and easy to lose, it’s best to remove this plate and set it aside while you continue to work on your phone.

Use tweezers to remove the plate from beneath the bracket to the left of the rear-facing camera.

When reassembling, orient the plate with the small tab to the right and the longest flat edge against the top of the phone.

Step 35

              Rear Facing Camera

Using a pair of tweezers, flip the rubber camera cover out of its clip and toward the outside of the rear case.
Do not attempt to fully remove this cover. It is attached to the rear case and only needs to be flipped open, not removed.

Using a pair of tweezers, flip the rubber camera cover out of its clip and toward the outside of the rear case.

Do not attempt to fully remove this cover. It is attached to the rear case and only needs to be flipped open, not removed.

Step 36

Remove the rear-facing camera from the rear case.
During reassembly, the camera cable should bend in a ‘U’ shape to slot in behind the logic board.
If the rubber camera bumper has shifted, be sure to replace it before reassembling your iPhone.

Remove the rear-facing camera from the rear case.

During reassembly, the camera cable should bend in a ‘U’ shape to slot in behind the logic board.

If the rubber camera bumper has shifted, be sure to replace it before reassembling your iPhone.

Step 37

              Camera Bracket

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket.

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket.

Step 38

Remove the rear-facing camera bracket from the rear case.

Remove the rear-facing camera bracket from the rear case.

Step 39

Remove the rubber camera bumper from the case.

Remove the rubber camera bumper from the case.

Step 40

              Battery

Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole in the battery adhesive tab near the headphone jack.
Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess.

Insert the tip of a spudger into the hole in the battery adhesive tab near the headphone jack.

Lift the tab up slightly and use the spudger to unfold the tab from its recess.

Step 41

Pull the battery adhesive tab straight up from the phone.
Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Pull the battery adhesive tab straight up from the phone.

Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Step 42

Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

Step 43

Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery.
Be careful not to snag it on the corner of the battery or on any of the other internal iPhone components.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery.

Be careful not to snag it on the corner of the battery or on any of the other internal iPhone components.

The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

Step 44

Repeat to remove the second adhesive strip.
If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps.
If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.

Repeat to remove the second adhesive strip.

If you removed both strips successfully, skip the next two steps.

If either of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strip, and then proceed to the next step.

Step 45

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery.

Step 46

Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.
Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.
Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

Flip the iPhone back over and insert a plastic card between the case side of the battery and the rear case.

Be careful to keep the card as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

Press the card in farther to break up the adhesive behind the battery.

Step 47

Remove the battery from the rear case.
When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery’s adhesive strips.

Remove the battery from the rear case.

When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery’s adhesive strips.

Step 48

              Vibrator

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws from the vibrator bracket:
One 1.7 mm screw
One 2.5 mm screw

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws from the vibrator bracket:

One 1.7 mm screw

One 2.5 mm screw

Step 49

With a set of tweezers, remove the vibrator bracket.

With a set of tweezers, remove the vibrator bracket.

Step 50

Remove the 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the vibrator to the rear case.

Remove the 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the vibrator to the rear case.

Step 51

Use a set of tweezers to remove the vibrator from the rear case.

Use a set of tweezers to remove the vibrator from the rear case.

Step 52

              Power Button

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board grounding bracket to the rear case.

Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board grounding bracket to the rear case.

Step 53

Remove the logic board grounding bracket.

Remove the logic board grounding bracket.

Step 54

Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the contact clip and power/sleep button bracket.

Remove the 2.1 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the contact clip and power/sleep button bracket.

Step 55

Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.
During reassembly, be sure the bracket is properly seated between the rear-facing camera flash and the top edge of the case.

Remove the contact clip from the iPhone.

During reassembly, be sure the bracket is properly seated between the rear-facing camera flash and the top edge of the case.

Step 56

Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case.

Slide the flat end of a spudger under the upper component assembly cable to free it from the rear case.

Step 57

Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case.

Use the tip of a spudger to free the microphone portion of the assembly from the case.

Step 58

Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case.

Use a set of tweezers to swing the power/sleep button bracket away from the case.

Step 59

Use the tip of a spudger to push the power/sleep button into the phone slightly.
Use a set of tweezers to remove the button.
Double check the orientation of the button for reassembly. The two “L” shapes should be upside down, and the metal bar should be folded onto the top of the button.

Use the tip of a spudger to push the power/sleep button into the phone slightly.

Use a set of tweezers to remove the button.

Double check the orientation of the button for reassembly. The two “L” shapes should be upside down, and the metal bar should be folded onto the top of the button.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Sam Goldheart

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Scott - Feb 19, 2014

In this disassembly for the power button, did you guys figure out how to silence the button rattle that we hear when shooting video or just shaking the phone? It is believed to be coming from the power button.

finn - Feb 24, 2016

How do you re connect the new button to the Hinge part of the power button assembly?

Donovan M - Mar 12, 2017

Nice write up. Thanks!

rappleby - Aug 19, 2017

there are several screws and their size missing from this guide. the 3 on the left side once you remove the battery, the ones that hold the volume and vibrate brackets in place. what size are those? i’ve been working on this phone 8 hours straight and lost track of where some of the screws go and what size they should be. i was stuck with a power button that wouldnt fit properly and i was at it so long i dont know where some of the screws go. i would really like a detailed guide/chart with screw sizes on it. and using calipers, are the sizes listed referring to the length of these screws? thank you

Jeff Suovanen - Aug 22, 2017

Sounds like you might be looking for a different guide? Those three screws you reference are detailed here. To answer your question, yes, the measurements are the screw lengths in mm as measured with a caliper.

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