Iphone 5C Rear Case Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          2 - 3 hours

Sections

Screen
16 steps
SIM Card
2 steps
SIM Ejector
2 steps
Battery
9 steps
Lightning Connector Assembly
12 steps
Logic Board
9 steps
Audio Control and Power Button Cable
19 steps

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Introduction

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you’ll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery using a piece of double-sided tape. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the power button grounding cable.

What you need

Step 1

              Taping the display glass

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

1024

Step 2

              Removing the Pentalobe screws

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

Step 3

              Starting the iSclack Opening Procedure

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Step 4

              Finishing the iSclack Opening Procedure

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.
Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

Step 5

              Manual Opening Procedure

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

Step 6

              Start lifting the front panel assembly

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Step 7

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.
Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Step 8

              Opening up the phone

Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Step 9

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Step 10

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Step 11

              Disconnecting the battery connector

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Step 12

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.3 mm screws
One 1.7 mm screw
One 3.25 mm screw
It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.
Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don’t fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don’t force them.

Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

Two 1.3 mm screws

One 1.7 mm screw

One 3.25 mm screw

It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don’t fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don’t force them.

Step 13

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Step 14

              Disconnecting the front panel assembly cables

Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.
Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

Step 15

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.
Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.
The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.
When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Step 16

              Separating front panel assembly and rear case

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Step 17

              SIM Card

Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.
Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.
This may require a significant amount of force.

Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.

This may require a significant amount of force.

Step 18

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.
During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Step 19

              SIM Ejector

Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the SIM ejector.

Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the SIM ejector.

Step 20

Use a set of tweezers to remove the SIM ejector from the phone.
Note the orientation for reassembly: the raised portion of the ejector should be closest to the bottom of the phone.

Use a set of tweezers to remove the SIM ejector from the phone.

Note the orientation for reassembly: the raised portion of the ejector should be closest to the bottom of the phone.

Step 21

              Battery

Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

Step 22

Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

Step 23

Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Step 24

Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.

The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

Step 25

Repeat to remove the second strip.

Repeat to remove the second strip.

Step 26

Remove the battery from your iPhone.
If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

Remove the battery from your iPhone.

If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

Step 27

              Battery removal with latent adhesive

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) under the battery and let it flow around the adhesive to help weaken it. High concentration isopropyl alcohol acts as a solvent and dries without leaving any residue, so it will not hurt your iPhone.
Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.
Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.
Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.
Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.
If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) under the battery and let it flow around the adhesive to help weaken it. High concentration isopropyl alcohol acts as a solvent and dries without leaving any residue, so it will not hurt your iPhone.

Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.

Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.

If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

Step 28

If the battery is still stuck to the case, follow our iOpener heating instructions or use a hair dryer to heat the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.
Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.
Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.
If using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the back of the iPhone until it’s slightly too hot to touch.
Do not apply heat directly to the battery.
Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

If the battery is still stuck to the case, follow our iOpener heating instructions or use a hair dryer to heat the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.

Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.

If using a hair dryer or heat gun, heat the back of the iPhone until it’s slightly too hot to touch.

Do not apply heat directly to the battery.

Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

Step 29

Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.
If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.

If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Step 30

              Lightning Connector Assembly

Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

Step 31

Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:
Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws
One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

Step 32

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

Step 33

Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

Step 34

The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. This small part may fall off unexpectedly, so it’s best to remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.
The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.
The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.
The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. This small part may fall off unexpectedly, so it’s best to remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.

The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

Step 35

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

Step 36

The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

Step 37

Disconnect the cellular antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

Disconnect the cellular antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

Step 38

Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:
Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws
One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw
One 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

One 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

Step 39

Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

Step 40

You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

Step 41

Remove the Lightning connector assembly.
There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.

Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.

Step 42

              Logic Board

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Step 43

A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

Step 44

Remove the following screws securing the logic board grounding clip to the rear case:
1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall
2.5 mm Phillips #000

Remove the following screws securing the logic board grounding clip to the rear case:

1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall

2.5 mm Phillips #000

Step 45

Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

Step 46

Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Three 2.7 mm standoff screws
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

Three 2.7 mm standoff screws

Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

Step 47

Holding the phone level, lift the bottom end of the logic board up enough to grasp it with your fingers.
Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board.
Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.

Holding the phone level, lift the bottom end of the logic board up enough to grasp it with your fingers.

Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board.

Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.

Step 48

Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.
Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.

Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

Step 49

Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

Step 50

Remove the logic board from the rear case.

Remove the logic board from the rear case.

Step 51

              Audio Control and Power Button Cable

Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear camera cover to the rear case.

Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear camera cover to the rear case.

Step 52

Remove the rear facing camera cover.

Remove the rear facing camera cover.

Step 53

Remove the rear facing camera.

Remove the rear facing camera.

Step 54

Remove the following screws securing the vibrator motor to the rear case:
1.2 mm Phillips #000
2.2 mm Phillips #000

Remove the following screws securing the vibrator motor to the rear case:

1.2 mm Phillips #000

2.2 mm Phillips #000

Step 55

Remove the vibrator motor.

Remove the vibrator motor.

Step 56

Remove the following screws securing the upper assembly contact bracket to the rear case:
3.0 mm standoff screw
1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

Remove the following screws securing the upper assembly contact bracket to the rear case:

3.0 mm standoff screw

1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

Step 57

Remove the upper assembly contact bracket from the rear case.
A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it.

Remove the upper assembly contact bracket from the rear case.

A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it.

Step 58

Remove any foam tape obscuring the screws near the camera cavity.

Remove any foam tape obscuring the screws near the camera cavity.

Step 59

Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the power/sleep button bracket.

Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the power/sleep button bracket.

Step 60

Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently fold the power/sleep button bracket down from the top of the rear case.
Use tweezers to grab and remove the button.
For reassembly, note the orientation—the metal bar should be flush with the bottom of the button.
If you can’t get a hold on the power button from inside the case, use a spudger to slightly push it in from the outside.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently fold the power/sleep button bracket down from the top of the rear case.

Use tweezers to grab and remove the button.

For reassembly, note the orientation—the metal bar should be flush with the bottom of the button.

If you can’t get a hold on the power button from inside the case, use a spudger to slightly push it in from the outside.

Step 61

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the mute/silent switch bracket.

Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the mute/silent switch bracket.

Step 62

Remove this mute/silent switch bracket clip and set it aside.
During reassembly, the bracket clip goes over the mute/silent switch bracket. Ensure the angled portion is to the right.
Use the tip of a spudger to flip the mute/silent switch bracket down.

Remove this mute/silent switch bracket clip and set it aside.

During reassembly, the bracket clip goes over the mute/silent switch bracket. Ensure the angled portion is to the right.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the mute/silent switch bracket down.

Step 63

Use tweezers to remove the mute/silent switch.
Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the switch should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

Use tweezers to remove the mute/silent switch.

Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the switch should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

Step 64

Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

Step 65

Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall. Remove the volume rocker.

Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall. Remove the volume rocker.

Step 66

Use the tip of a spudger to peel the power/sleep button cable off of the rear case.

Use the tip of a spudger to peel the power/sleep button cable off of the rear case.

Step 67

Run a spudger gently under the flash assembly cable to separate it from the phone.

Run a spudger gently under the flash assembly cable to separate it from the phone.

Step 68

Peel the upper assembly cable up from right to left to separate the adhesive holding it to the case.

Peel the upper assembly cable up from right to left to separate the adhesive holding it to the case.

Step 69

Take extra care in peeling the vibrator contact end of the cable off of the phone.
Do not touch the contacts; finger oils can corrode the metal and prevent a solid connection.
You can now remove the assembly from the phone.

Take extra care in peeling the vibrator contact end of the cable off of the phone.

Do not touch the contacts; finger oils can corrode the metal and prevent a solid connection.

You can now remove the assembly from the phone.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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David - Sep 28, 2016

crucial information is missing:

when removing the lightning connector module, not only the black “rubber gasket” attached to the microphone needs to be carefully transfered to the new rear case, but also

-the rectangular black plastic microphone filter with the small cylindrical extrusion, which is stuck to the case

-the grid/foam frame protecting the speaker, which is also glued to the case

-the 2 gold connector rings around the screw holes on the upper black plastic part at the bottom of the case.

-the metal piece remotely similar to a “bone” shape, two rings connected by a longer part, stuck to the lower black plastic part at the bottom of the case.

-in general the 4 metal parts screwed to the side of the case, functioning as snap-locks for the front display. (3x with 2 snap lock elements, 1x with only 1, next to the volume rocker

-the black ring round the hole where the wifi/bluetooth antenna goes, underneath the vibration motor.

depending on the case you’re getting, all of these need to be transfered.

David - Sep 28, 2016

Also the transfer of the WiFi/Bluetooth antenna is completely missing. In my case the antenna to logic board connector cable broke, so i had to replace it

Fiiu - Oct 16, 2016

where is this located Apple Part Number: 821-1769

I replaced old back body with the new one and when I finished this part was still on my desk and gps doesn’t get signal anymore :)

Introduction#

What you need#

Team#

Introduction

What you need

Team