Iphone 5 Audio Control And Power Button Cable Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          45 minutes - 3 hours

Sections

Screen
16 steps
Battery
3 steps
Logic Board Assembly
13 steps
Power Button
5 steps
Volume Controls
5 steps
Audio Control and Power Button Cable
3 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Taping the display glass

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Step 2

              Remove the Pentalobe screws

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Step 3

              How to prevent display separation

In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.
Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.
If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.
If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

Step 4

              Starting the iSclack Opening Procedure

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.
Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.
Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.
The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.
Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5 that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip to Step 6.

Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Step 5

              Finishing the iSclack Opening Procedure

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.
The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.
Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

Skip the next three steps and continue on Step 9.

Step 6

              Manual Opening Procedure

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.
Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
If you’re opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

If you’re opening an iPhone with cracked glass, neatly lay a couple strips of packing tape across the front and squeeze out as many bubbles as you can. This will give the suction cup a surface to grab, and minimize the spread of broken glass.

Step 7

              Start lifting the front panel assembly

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.
While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.
Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The screen is a much tighter fit than most devices.
With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the screen, while you pull up with the suction cup.
There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The screen is a much tighter fit than most devices.

With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the screen, while you pull up with the suction cup.

There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Step 8

              Detaching the front panel side clips

Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

Continue to pry up around the sides of the front panel assembly, detaching the clips along the left and right side.

Step 9

              Opening up the phone

Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.
Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several ribbon cables still attached at the top of the iPhone.

Once the clips have been released on the bottom and sides of the front panel assembly, pull the bottom of the assembly away from the rear case.

Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Step 10

              Removing the battery connector bracket screws

Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:
One 1.8 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Remove the following two screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board:

One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

Step 11

              Removing the battery connector bracket

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Step 12

              Disconnecting the battery connector

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be careful not to dislodge the small surface-mounted components surrounding the socket.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Step 13

              Removing the front panel assembly cable bracket screws

Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:
Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

Two 1.2 mm Phillips screws

This screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing, and make sure it gets back into the right place—a magnetized screw may interfere with the compass.

Step 14

              Removing the front panel assembly cable bracket

Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.
During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.

Lift the display cable bracket toward the battery to unhook it, and remove it from the iPhone.

During reassembly, clip the left-hand hooks under the logic board and lower the bracket towards the outside of the phone.

Step 15

              Disconnecting the front panel assembly cables

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.
Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:
Front-facing camera and sensor cable
LCD cable
Digitizer cable
When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the three front panel assembly cables:

Front-facing camera and sensor cable

LCD cable

Digitizer cable

When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can cause white lines, or nothing at all to appear when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Step 16

              Separating front panel assembly and rear case

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Step 17

              Lifting the battery

Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.
If you are having trouble peeling the battery up or if the tab breaks, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery.
Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use an opening tool to gently lift the battery by its edge.
Don’t try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
If you still have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.
Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

Use the exposed clear plastic pull tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

If you are having trouble peeling the battery up or if the tab breaks, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery.

Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use an opening tool to gently lift the battery by its edge.

Don’t try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

If you still have trouble peeling the battery up, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the rear case of the iPhone and soften the adhesive.

Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

Step 18

              Prying up the battery

Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone. Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board.
If the battery doesn’t pry easily out of the case, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.
Do not pry at the top portion of the battery, you risk severing the volume control cables.

Use the plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery up, only at the outside edge of the phone. Prying anywhere else, especially near the logic board, may result in damage to the logic board.

If the battery doesn’t pry easily out of the case, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.

Pry gently and evenly to avoid deforming the battery. A bent battery can be a fire hazard.

Do not pry at the top portion of the battery, you risk severing the volume control cables.

Step 19

              Removing the battery

Remove the battery.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Remove the battery.

If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove it before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.

Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

During reassembly, make sure the battery is seated firmly against the rear case. This will prevent any damage to other components when reinstalling the front panel assembly.

Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

Step 20

              Logic Board Assembly

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular data antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board, just above the speaker enclosure.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the cellular data antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board, just above the speaker enclosure.

Step 21

Remove the following two screws securing the top logic board bracket to the rear case:
One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

Remove the following two screws securing the top logic board bracket to the rear case:

One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

Step 22

Remove the bracket from the top of the logic board.
Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.
On newer models, the bracket may be attached to the camera housing and will not come completely out.

Remove the bracket from the top of the logic board.

Be sure not to break off the tiny grounding tab that sticks up off of the bracket next to the rear facing camera.

On newer models, the bracket may be attached to the camera housing and will not come completely out.

Step 23

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the following three cables from the logic board:
Upper interconnect cable
Button assembly cable
Lower interconnect cable

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the following three cables from the logic board:

Upper interconnect cable

Button assembly cable

Lower interconnect cable

Step 24

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the inner top of the rear case.

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws from the inner top of the rear case.

Step 25

Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw remaining in the mid-section logic board bracket.

Remove the single 1.2 mm Phillips screw remaining in the mid-section logic board bracket.

Step 26

Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic board.

Remove the mid-section bracket from the logic board.

Step 27

Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.

Use a spudger to pry the Lightning connector cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Gently peel the cable back and out of the way of the logic board.

Step 28

Depress the SIM card release on the right side of the iPhone with a SIM card eject tool or a bent paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.
Alternatively, you can press the SIM card eject lever from the inside with the flat end of a spudger.
Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

Depress the SIM card release on the right side of the iPhone with a SIM card eject tool or a bent paperclip to eject the SIM card tray.

Alternatively, you can press the SIM card eject lever from the inside with the flat end of a spudger.

Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

Step 29

Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:
Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
Two 2.7 mm standoff screws
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.
One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw
Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may interfere with the digital compass.

Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

Two 2.7 mm standoff screws

Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

One non-magnetic 2.7 mm standoff screw

Be sure to put this screw back in its original position at the top of the logic board. A magnetized screw may interfere with the digital compass.

Step 30

Rotate the logic board assembly toward the battery side of the rear case.
Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.
The flash surround is adhered to the flash unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear case remove with tweezers and mount it back on the flash unit.
Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Rotate the logic board assembly toward the battery side of the rear case.

Do not attempt to completely remove the logic board assembly from the rear case, yet; there is still one cable connected to the underside of the logic board.

The flash surround is adhered to the flash unit and the rear case. If it stays on the rear case remove with tweezers and mount it back on the flash unit.

Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Step 31

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the underside of the logic board.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector up from its socket on the underside of the logic board.

Step 32

Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.
While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to prevent any damage to the circuitry.

Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case.

While your logic board is out of your phone, keep it on a grounded anti-static mat to prevent any damage to the circuitry.

Step 33

              Power Button

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the rubber bumper from below the power button.

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the rubber bumper from below the power button.

Step 34

Remove the following screws from the metal bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows:
One 2.9 mm standoff screw
Standoff screws are best removed with a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A small flathead screwdriver can also do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw
One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

Remove the following screws from the metal bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows:

One 2.9 mm standoff screw

Standoff screws are best removed with a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A small flathead screwdriver can also do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn’t slip and damage surrounding components.

One 1.9 mm Phillips screw

Step 35

Remove the metal bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows.

Remove the metal bracket between the rear facing flash and camera windows.

Step 36

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the metal bracket holding the power switch away from the top of the rear case.

Use the tip of a spudger to flip the metal bracket holding the power switch away from the top of the rear case.

Step 37

Press the power button into the rear case from the outside of the phone with the tip of a spudger.
Remove the power button.
When installing the power button, make sure the hinged metal loop on the back is flipped up, as shown—not down.

Press the power button into the rear case from the outside of the phone with the tip of a spudger.

Remove the power button.

When installing the power button, make sure the hinged metal loop on the back is flipped up, as shown—not down.

Step 38

              Volume Controls

Remove three screws securing the vibrator and vibrator bracket to the rear case:
One 2.3 mm Phillips screw
One 1.7 mm Phillips screw
One 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the vibrator to the top inside of the rear case.

Remove three screws securing the vibrator and vibrator bracket to the rear case:

One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

One 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the vibrator to the top inside of the rear case.

Step 39

Remove the vibrator and vibrator bracket from the rear case.

Remove the vibrator and vibrator bracket from the rear case.

Step 40

Remove the following screws securing the volume button and ringer switch brackets to the side of the rear case:
One 1.5 mm Phillips screw
Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws

Remove the following screws securing the volume button and ringer switch brackets to the side of the rear case:

Two 1.8 mm Phillips screws

Step 41

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the ringer switch bracket from the side of the rear case.
Remove the ringer switch.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the ringer switch bracket from the side of the rear case.

Remove the ringer switch.

Step 42

Use a spudger to pry the volume button bracket from the side of the rear case.
Remove the volume buttons.

Use a spudger to pry the volume button bracket from the side of the rear case.

Remove the volume buttons.

Step 43

              Audio Control and Power Button Cable

Use the tip of a spudger to slide the power button bracket up and to the left to unhook it from the metal hinge.

Use the tip of a spudger to slide the power button bracket up and to the left to unhook it from the metal hinge.

Step 44

Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the cable up from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the cable up from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Step 45

Continue prying the audio control cable up from the rear case.
If your replacement part doesn’t include the metal bracket, use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the audio control cable and peel it off of the metal bracket with a spudger.

Continue prying the audio control cable up from the rear case.

If your replacement part doesn’t include the metal bracket, use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the audio control cable and peel it off of the metal bracket with a spudger.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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Boris - May 23, 2013

How to put the mute button bracket from the old cable to the new? I dunno how to hold it firm on the button/flex cable, the 3 pins on the new button seem to be too long, which prevents me from reattaching the metal plate that goes on the bracket. All guides i find just skip that part.

jturner - Jul 10, 2013

Looks to me like the bracket on the ringer switch was -riveted- with heat. I personally plan to use a soldering iron and a fine tip at a lower heat to melt the 3 prongs down after placing the bracket on the new ringer switch. I’d say this takes this process from moderate to high.

Rodrigo - Jul 4, 2013

and the step to remove vibrator?

tks

billyjo182 - Dec 18, 2013

This was pretty easy, as long as you take your time, keep everything very organized, it should not take you any more than an hour… SUCCESS!!!

Joseph Wang - Dec 28, 2014

I have already ordered the part but I need to know HOW to keep about a million screws “organized”? Please share your ideas and how you did it. THANKS A MILLION

Introduction#

What you need#

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Introduction

What you need

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