Iphone 3Gs Power Button Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

Broken Glass
1 step
Battery
15 steps
Power Button
2 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Step 1

              Broken Glass

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Step 2

              Remove the bottom screws

Remove the two 3.7mm Phillips #00 screws from the dock-connector end of the iPhone.

Remove the two 3.7mm Phillips #00 screws from the dock-connector end of the iPhone.

Step 3

              Loosen the display

Remove the metal handle from the suction cup. It’s easier and safer to grip the suction cup’s base instead of the metal handle.
Be very careful when opening the iPhone so that the cables under the display are not severed.
There is a rubber gasket between the silver front bezel and black display assembly. A bit of force is required in this step to separate the iPhone’s display assembly. It may help to rock the suction cup back and forth to remove the display assembly.
Use a small suction cup near the Home button to gently pull up the bottom portion of the iPhone’s display assembly.
If the display assembly is too damaged to allow the suction cup to adhere, tape with a strong adhesive such as duct tape or packing tape may be used.

Remove the metal handle from the suction cup. It’s easier and safer to grip the suction cup’s base instead of the metal handle.

Be very careful when opening the iPhone so that the cables under the display are not severed.

There is a rubber gasket between the silver front bezel and black display assembly. A bit of force is required in this step to separate the iPhone’s display assembly. It may help to rock the suction cup back and forth to remove the display assembly.

Use a small suction cup near the Home button to gently pull up the bottom portion of the iPhone’s display assembly.

If the display assembly is too damaged to allow the suction cup to adhere, tape with a strong adhesive such as duct tape or packing tape may be used.

Step 4

              Pull up the display

The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by several cables, so don’t try to remove it entirely just yet.
Rotate the display assembly up until it is at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.

The display assembly is still connected to the iPhone by several cables, so don’t try to remove it entirely just yet.

Rotate the display assembly up until it is at an angle of approximately 45 degrees.

Step 5

              Disconnect cable 1

Continue to hold the display assembly with one hand, and use your other hand and a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled “1”. (Cable 1 is for the display)
Be careful to insert the spudger from the left, as shown in the picture (UNDER THE RIBBON). If you try to pry up the ribbon from the right, you could damage the ribbon connector and need to replace the display!
All connectors except the ribbon connector “3” mentioned in step 7 release upwards.

Continue to hold the display assembly with one hand, and use your other hand and a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled “1”. (Cable 1 is for the display)

Be careful to insert the spudger from the left, as shown in the picture (UNDER THE RIBBON). If you try to pry up the ribbon from the right, you could damage the ribbon connector and need to replace the display!

All connectors except the ribbon connector “3” mentioned in step 7 release upwards.

Step 6

              Disconnect cable 2

Rotate the display assembly up until it is roughly vertical. This will allow easier access for disconnecting the remaining cables.
Use a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled “2”. (Cable 2 is for the capacitative touch panel)

Rotate the display assembly up until it is roughly vertical. This will allow easier access for disconnecting the remaining cables.

Use a spudger to disconnect the black ribbon cable labeled “2”. (Cable 2 is for the capacitative touch panel)

Step 7

              Disconnect cable 3

Please note: You may find on some non-American (Chinese, European) versions of the 3G that the flip up plastic tab does not exist. In this case you would slide the ribbon cable towards the screen until it is removed. When you assemble it, you would apply pressure to the ribbon to insert it back into the ribbon “socket.”
Some iPhones may have the connector colors reversed (black plastic tab, white connector) for connector “3”. Make sure you’re flipping up the tab properly, otherwise you may damage the connector.
Use a spudger to flip up the white plastic tab holding the ribbon cable “3” in place. The white tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.
Slide the black ribbon cable out of its connector, and remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

Please note: You may find on some non-American (Chinese, European) versions of the 3G that the flip up plastic tab does not exist. In this case you would slide the ribbon cable towards the screen until it is removed. When you assemble it, you would apply pressure to the ribbon to insert it back into the ribbon “socket.”

Some iPhones may have the connector colors reversed (black plastic tab, white connector) for connector “3”. Make sure you’re flipping up the tab properly, otherwise you may damage the connector.

Use a spudger to flip up the white plastic tab holding the ribbon cable “3” in place. The white tab will rotate up 90 degrees, releasing the ribbon cable.

Slide the black ribbon cable out of its connector, and remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

Step 8

              Remove the SIM card tray

Insert your SIM eject tool or a paper clip into the hole next to the headphone jack.
Press down on the tool until the SIM card tray pops out.
Grasp the SIM card tray and slide it out of the iPhone.

Insert your SIM eject tool or a paper clip into the hole next to the headphone jack.

Press down on the tool until the SIM card tray pops out.

Grasp the SIM card tray and slide it out of the iPhone.

Step 9

              Disconnect cable 4

Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “4.”

Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “4.”

Step 10

              Disconnect cable 5

Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “5.”

Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “5.”

Step 11

              Disconnect cables 6 and 7

Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “6.”
If you have an iPhone 3GS, refer to the second picture and use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “7.”
Be certain that the connectors on the ribbon cables are perfectly aligned with the sockets on the mother board before applying pressure. This may require a magnifying glass or jewelers’ loupe.

Use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “6.”

If you have an iPhone 3GS, refer to the second picture and use a spudger to disconnect the ribbon cable labeled “7.”

Be certain that the connectors on the ribbon cables are perfectly aligned with the sockets on the mother board before applying pressure. This may require a magnifying glass or jewelers’ loupe.

Step 12

              Remove the logic board screws

Remove the following 8 screws:
Five 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with partial threads securing the logic board to the rear case.
Two 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with full threads securing the logic board and camera.
One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw from beneath the “Do not remove” sticker.
Note for re-assembly:
The screw that goes next to the camera (bottom right orange highlighted screw) also has a metal strip that holds the camera in place.
Remember to put this strip back in place before you insert the 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw with full thread next to the camera

Remove the following 8 screws:

Five 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with partial threads securing the logic board to the rear case.

Two 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screws with full threads securing the logic board and camera.

One 2.9 mm Phillips #00 screw from beneath the “Do not remove” sticker.

Note for re-assembly:

The screw that goes next to the camera (bottom right orange highlighted screw) also has a metal strip that holds the camera in place.

Remember to put this strip back in place before you insert the 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw with full thread next to the camera

Step 13

              Loosen the camera

Use a spudger to gently pry the camera up and out of its housing in the rear case.
The camera cannot be removed entirely yet because it’s connected to the bottom of the logic board.

Use a spudger to gently pry the camera up and out of its housing in the rear case.

The camera cannot be removed entirely yet because it’s connected to the bottom of the logic board.

Step 14

              Remove the logic board

Use a spudger to gently pry up the end of the logic board closest to the dock connector.
There is a small golden grounding tab on logic board adjacent to the ‘do not remove sticker’. Be VERY careful this does not snag on the side of the case when prying up the logic board; it breaks easily. If you have signal problems after removing the logic board, check this ground tab.
If the board won’t lift up, double check to make sure all the screws securing the logic board have been removed.

Use a spudger to gently pry up the end of the logic board closest to the dock connector.

There is a small golden grounding tab on logic board adjacent to the ‘do not remove sticker’. Be VERY careful this does not snag on the side of the case when prying up the logic board; it breaks easily. If you have signal problems after removing the logic board, check this ground tab.

If the board won’t lift up, double check to make sure all the screws securing the logic board have been removed.

Step 15

Slide the logic board towards the dock connector and out of the iPhone.
When replacing the logic board after installing battery, connect the camera to the logic board before inserting it into the case. Then make sure to set the top section of the logic board (where the SIM tray is) in place before settling the rest of the board in place. This is important, as sometimes the SIM card slot will not align into place. Once the top section is in place, the bottom section can be maneuvered into place. You will know the logic board is correctly installed when the SIM tray is aligned with the opening in the iPhone case and the camera module seats neatly into its place.

Slide the logic board towards the dock connector and out of the iPhone.

When replacing the logic board after installing battery, connect the camera to the logic board before inserting it into the case. Then make sure to set the top section of the logic board (where the SIM tray is) in place before settling the rest of the board in place. This is important, as sometimes the SIM card slot will not align into place. Once the top section is in place, the bottom section can be maneuvered into place. You will know the logic board is correctly installed when the SIM tray is aligned with the opening in the iPhone case and the camera module seats neatly into its place.

Step 16

              Loosen the battery

Use a spudger to pry the battery up from the rear case. The battery is attached with an adhesive strip around the perimeter of the battery.
To prevent the battery from bending during the removal process, we recommend against using just the plastic pull-tab.
Removing the battery is NOT necessary for replacing the GPS antenna. It merely gives you more space for removing the headphone assembly (which is also unnecessary to completely remove).
The iPhone’s battery is attached to the rear case with a mild adhesive. This adhesive usually comes out attached to the battery. If your replacement battery already includes an adhesive backing, you’re all set. If your replacement battery doesn’t have an adhesive backing, you’ll want to transfer the adhesive from your old battery to the new one.
If the battery isn’t detaching from the rear case, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery. Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery. Allow the alcohol to air dry before installing your new battery.
Don’t try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.
You can use a hair dryer or heat gun on its lowest setting to heat the back of the case. This will help loosen the adhesive bond before using the spudger to separate the battery from the case back.
Caution: Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

Use a spudger to pry the battery up from the rear case. The battery is attached with an adhesive strip around the perimeter of the battery.

To prevent the battery from bending during the removal process, we recommend against using just the plastic pull-tab.

Removing the battery is NOT necessary for replacing the GPS antenna. It merely gives you more space for removing the headphone assembly (which is also unnecessary to completely remove).

The iPhone’s battery is attached to the rear case with a mild adhesive. This adhesive usually comes out attached to the battery. If your replacement battery already includes an adhesive backing, you’re all set. If your replacement battery doesn’t have an adhesive backing, you’ll want to transfer the adhesive from your old battery to the new one.

If the battery isn’t detaching from the rear case, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery. Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery. Allow the alcohol to air dry before installing your new battery.

Don’t try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

You can use a hair dryer or heat gun on its lowest setting to heat the back of the case. This will help loosen the adhesive bond before using the spudger to separate the battery from the case back.

Caution: Overheating the iPhone may ignite the battery.

Step 17

              Power Button

Remove the two Phillips #00 screws securing the on/off switch to the front bezel.

Remove the two Phillips #00 screws securing the on/off switch to the front bezel.

Step 18

Gently pull the power button electronics away from the top edge of the rear case.
Use the tip of a spudger or your fingers to remove the power button from the rear case.
The power button is attached to a metal handle. It can rotate 180º in one side and 135º in the other. When putting it back remember to rotate 180º so that the metal handle faces down (towards the back panel).

Gently pull the power button electronics away from the top edge of the rear case.

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingers to remove the power button from the rear case.

The power button is attached to a metal handle. It can rotate 180º in one side and 135º in the other. When putting it back remember to rotate 180º so that the metal handle faces down (towards the back panel).

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Andrew Bookholt

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MarMightyGood - Jun 14, 2011

This was really helpful - I didn’t have (and couldn’t easily source) a spudger. I used a small flathead screwdriver instead. Probably not recommended as it could easily damage surrounding components, but seemed to work OK.

I wasn’t able to remove the battery, largely because of the above (and the warning in the guide about pulling on the plastic tab), but was easily able to remove the power button assembly and install a new button with the battery in-place.

Works great now, although my mute button was also misbehaving (prior to opening the phone!), but I wasn’t confident about removing the last ribbon cable required to get at that when I wasn’t sure exactly what was wrong with it.

jgerth - Nov 23, 2011

I ended up not needing to remove the battery to replace the power button. I also noticed that there is a very small plastic tab on the old power button which I had to transfer to the new power button in order for the connection to work correctly. And finally, I had a heck of a time reattaching the screws that hold the power button into place. I suppose that might have been due to not removing the battery, but what ever the cause, it was not easy and I’m still not 100% sure they are in correctly. But everything is working … for now at least.

Connor Jeffers - Dec 5, 2012

I did all of these steps but now my Iphone is stuck as a black screen with the apple and wont do anything…HELP! i’m freaking out.

Jake Guest - Aug 13, 2015

You haven’t reconnected the screen ribbon cables correctly. Open it back up and make sure they’re all in properly. I’ve had this issue a few times and that is definitely the solution.

Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need