Iphone 12 Screen Replacement Repair Guide

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Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

Pentalobe Screws
1 step
Taping Over The Display
1 step
Display Assembly
18 steps
Earpiece Speaker and Front Sensor Assembly
7 steps

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Introduction

The combined earpiece speaker + sensor assembly affixed to the back of the display is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement. It contains the flood illuminator, which is part of the biometric Face ID security feature. If it is damaged or replaced, Face ID will cease to function, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple or an Apple-authorized technician can restore Face ID function.

Note: True Tone functionality is disabled after a screen replacement, even when using an original Apple screen.

What you need

Step 1

              Remove the pentalobe screws

Caution: Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Caution: Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.75 mm long pentalobe P2 screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

1024

Step 2

              Tape over any cracks

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the iPhone’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

Step 3

              Heat the lower edge of the iPhone

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 4

              Apply suction cup(s)

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger iPhones like the iPhone 12.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Press both suction cups firmly into place.
If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger iPhones like the iPhone 12.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Press both suction cups firmly into place.

If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

Step 5

              Lift the display slightly

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.
Skip the next two steps.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

Skip the next two steps.

Step 6

              Apply a suction cup

If you’re using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

If you’re using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the very edge of the glass.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 7

              Lift the display slightly

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 8

              Separate the screen adhesive

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 9

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 10

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Insert your pick into the right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and across the top edge.
Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

Insert your pick into the right edge of the phone. Slide it around the top-right corner and across the top edge.

Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Step 11

              Open the iPhone

If you haven’t removed your suction handle or iSclack, remove it now.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

If you haven’t removed your suction handle or iSclack, remove it now.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the right side, like the front cover of a book.

Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Step 12

              Unscrew the battery and display connector cover

Remove two 1.1 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove two 1.1 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery and display connector cover.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 13

              Remove the battery and display connector cover

Remove the cover.

Remove the cover.

Step 14

              Disconnect the battery

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 15

              Disconnect the display cable

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the display cable connector.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 16

              Disconnect the digitizer cable

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 17

              Unscrew the front sensor connector cover

Use a Y000 driver to remove four screws securing the front sensor connector cover.
Three 1.1 mm long screws
One 1.4 mm long screw

Use a Y000 driver to remove four screws securing the front sensor connector cover.

Three 1.1 mm long screws

One 1.4 mm long screw

Step 18

              Remove the front sensor connector cover

Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.
Remove the cover.
During reassembly, insert the clip on the right edge into its slot first, then hinge the rest of the cover into place.

Swing the cover up from the left until the small clip on the right unhooks.

During reassembly, insert the clip on the right edge into its slot first, then hinge the rest of the cover into place.

Step 19

              Disconnect the front sensors

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

Step 20

              Remove the display assembly

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 21

              Unscrew the speaker/sensor assembly

Remove the four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display.
Two 1.4 mm long Phillips screws
One 1.7 mm long shouldered Y000 screw
One 1.2 mm long Y000 screw

Remove the four screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display.

Two 1.4 mm long Phillips screws

One 1.7 mm long shouldered Y000 screw

One 1.2 mm long Y000 screw

Step 22

              Flip the speaker assembly over

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.
Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.
Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
The speaker remains attached via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.

Use the point of a spudger to gently pry up the top edge of the speaker.

Flip the speaker assembly over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

The speaker remains attached via a very thin ribbon cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

Step 23

              Heat the top edge of the display

Use a hair dryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for 1-2 minutes, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

Step 24

              Separate the ambient light sensor

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the ambient light sensor from its notch in the front panel.
Take care not to damage the light sensor ribbon cables while prying.
Continue sliding the spudger underneath the ambient light sensor and its cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable.

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the ambient light sensor from its notch in the front panel.

Take care not to damage the light sensor ribbon cables while prying.

Continue sliding the spudger underneath the ambient light sensor and its cable to separate the adhesive securing the cable.

Step 25

              Pry up the microphone

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

Use the point of a spudger to lift and separate the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

Step 26

              Pry up the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module

Use the point of a spudger to lift the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module out of its notch in the front panel.

Use the point of a spudger to lift the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module out of its notch in the front panel.

Step 27

              Remove the speaker and front sensor assembly

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.
During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:
Proximity sensor
Flood illuminator
The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

Proximity sensor

Flood illuminator

The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our iPhone 12 Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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                    Adam O'Camb

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Adam Anderson - Apr 15, 2022

i am trying to source a replacement screen for my iPhone 12 that needs a new digitizer and battery. My main concern is since I cannot purchase an original part from apple and have to resort to eBay they have several option;

Lcd / Oled soft / Oled hard / Incell lcd??

I asssumed the 12 came with the oled screen and I’m worried that if I put a non original type screen it could damage phone after awhile?

what digitizer should I get?

Tecc World - Jun 3, 2022

Hi, I would recommend looking at places like Fixez.com rather than Ebay. Their prices are lower and they have a LCD buyback program which is very helpful. They have a wide ranging variety of LCD’s. On a scale of best to worst LCD’s its ranges: OLED Soft,OLED Hard, Incell LCD, LCD. I hope this helps

Alex Hsu - Jun 29, 2022

Hi there,

I have read that by installing an aftermarket screen, I would get a non-genuine display message. Has Apple addressed this issue?

Than

Core Confusion - Aug 2, 2022

Genuine components have chips that allow the phone to identify them - third party ones frequently do not. The phone is doing what it is designed to do so there isn’t really anything for Apple to address. Much as anything it’s to stop companies refurbishing iPhone’s ‘in-house’ and selling them as having genuine parts. The non genuine part message is t inherently a bad thing, it’s an advisory rather than an error.

Jeffrey Miller - Nov 27, 2022

Hi, I lent my grandson my iphone 12 and I got it back with a broken screen and a broken back glass. I have another iphone 12 for parts. I was going to swap out the screen and the back glass. My question is do I have to remove all these parts as described above or c an I just plug the new screen in ? Second question my iphone has a Qlink wireless SIM card in it and it works perfect. The same SIM card will not work in my other iphone that being said would it be easier to somehow take my other iphone and use the parts from my broken one so the SIM card would work in it? I don’t know what it would entail to do such a thing but if you would possibly know what I would have to do to make this happen please let me know… Otherwise I will take the screen and back glass and continue to install them on my own phone. also which procedure would be easier to do?? Kudos to you on this article I followed it to the letter and everything worked perfect I removed the screen without any problems. GREAT ARTICLE! Thanks Jeffrey

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Introduction

What you need