Iphone 11 Pro Front Camera Replacement Without Losing Face Id Repair Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          40 minutes

Sections

Pentalobe Screws
1 step
Opening Procedure
11 steps
Front Camera Only
25 steps

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Introduction

As the front camera is part of an assembly together with the infrared camera and dot projector, it is necessary to replace the front camera separately if Face ID functionality is to be retained.

Replacing the front camera alone does not affect the function of the Face ID, while Face ID will be disabled when replacing the full front camera assembly.

Before attempting the actual replacement, a new camera should be plugged in and tested in order to verify that this repair will fix the problem.

What you need

Video Overview

Step 1

              Remove the pentalobe screws

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

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Step 2

              Heat the lower edge of the phone

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 3

              Apply suction cup(s)

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger iPhones like the iPhone 11 Pro.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.
Press both suction cups firmly into place.
If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren’t using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it’s not needed for larger iPhones like the iPhone 11 Pro.

Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

Press both suction cups firmly into place.

If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

Step 4

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.
Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.
Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.
Skip the next two steps.

Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

Don’t try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

Skip the next two steps.

Step 5

If you’re using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

If you’re using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Step 6

              Lift the display slightly

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

Insert an opening pick into the gap.

The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 7

              Separate the screen adhesive

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.
Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

Don’t insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

Step 8

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.
Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

Don’t insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

Step 9

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.
Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).
Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

Gently pull the right edge of the display down slightly (in the direction of the Lightning port).

Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

Step 10

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.
Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.
Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Continue pulling the display down (toward the Lightning port) as needed in order to make a gap large enough for the pick.

Slide the pick to the top left corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Again, don’t insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

Step 11

              Remove the suction cup(s)

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
If you used an iSclack and it’s still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

If you used an iSclack and it’s still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

Step 12

              Open the iPhone

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.
During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.

Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you’re working on the phone.

During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn’t click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren’t bent.

Step 13

              Unscrew the battery connector cover

Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.
During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Remove two 1.3 mm long Y000 screws securing the battery cover bracket.

Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

Step 14

              Remove the battery connector cover

Remove the bracket.

Remove the bracket.

Step 15

              Disconnect the battery

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 16

              Unscrew the logic board cover screws

Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Use a Y000 driver to remove six 1.3 mm screws securing the logic board cover bracket.

Step 17

              Remove the logic board cover bracket

Step 18

              Disconnect the Face ID hardware

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the Face ID dot projector and sensor cables from their sockets on the logic board.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the Face ID dot projector and sensor cables from their sockets on the logic board.

Step 19

              Disconnect the selfie cam

Gently push the Face ID cable connectors away from the logic board to access the selfie cam connector underneath.
Disconnect the selfie cam by prying its connector straight up.

Gently push the Face ID cable connectors away from the logic board to access the selfie cam connector underneath.

Disconnect the selfie cam by prying its connector straight up.

Step 20

              Test the replacement camera

In order to ensure replacing the camera will resolve the issue, it is strongly recommended that the replacement camera be tested first.

In order to ensure replacing the camera will resolve the issue, it is strongly recommended that the replacement camera be tested first.

Step 21

              Install the new front camera flex cable

Connect the replacement camera by pressing the connector into its socket.

Connect the replacement camera by pressing the connector into its socket.

Step 22

              Reconnect the battery

Press the battery connector into its socket.

Press the battery connector into its socket.

Step 23

Turn on the phone and open the camera.
Verify that the front and rear cameras work correctly.
If they do, we can conclude that replacing the damaged front camera will resolve the issue and can proceed with this repair.
If the new camera does not fix the problem then the rest of this procedure will be of no help. Stop here and reassemble your phone.

Turn on the phone and open the camera.

Verify that the front and rear cameras work correctly.

If they do, we can conclude that replacing the damaged front camera will resolve the issue and can proceed with this repair.

If the new camera does not fix the problem then the rest of this procedure will be of no help. Stop here and reassemble your phone.

Step 24

              Disconnect the battery

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

Step 25

              Disconnect the OLED display cable

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

Step 26

              Disconnect the front sensors + digitizer

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.
If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

If any part of your screen doesn’t respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there’s no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

Step 27

              Remove the display assembly

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Remove the display assembly.

During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the waterproof adhesive around the edges of the display.

Step 28

              Disconnect the selfie cam

Step 29

Grasp the front camera assembly with tweezers, being careful not to get fingerprints on the sensors.
Slide the front camera assembly slightly down and to the left to free it from the enclosure.

Grasp the front camera assembly with tweezers, being careful not to get fingerprints on the sensors.

Slide the front camera assembly slightly down and to the left to free it from the enclosure.

Step 30

              Remove the front-facing cameras

Remove the front-facing cameras.

Remove the front-facing cameras.

Step 31

In order to prevent damage the infrared camera and dot projector, apply Kapton tape to both parts.

In order to prevent damage the infrared camera and dot projector, apply Kapton tape to both parts.

Step 32

Turn the front camera module over and attach the assembly to a holder. Heat with a hot air gun at 100 °C to remove the tape.

Turn the front camera module over and attach the assembly to a holder. Heat with a hot air gun at 100 °C to remove the tape.

Step 33

Grind the corner of the metal plate away with a Polishing & Grinding Pen or a Dremel multitool.
Pry up the metal plate with tweezers.

Grind the corner of the metal plate away with a Polishing & Grinding Pen or a Dremel multitool.

Pry up the metal plate with tweezers.

Step 34

Heat the front camera with a hot air gun at 100 °C for 30 seconds to loosen the adhesive bonding it to the frame.
Cover the front camera with a lint-free wipe and press gently.
Remove the damaged front camera.

Heat the front camera with a hot air gun at 100 °C for 30 seconds to loosen the adhesive bonding it to the frame.

Cover the front camera with a lint-free wipe and press gently.

Remove the damaged front camera.

Step 35

Apply adhesive to the edges of the frame surrounding the camera opening. Use it sparingly.
Install the new front camera, being careful to insert it squarely into the hole to avoid getting adhesive on the lens.

Apply adhesive to the edges of the frame surrounding the camera opening. Use it sparingly.

Install the new front camera, being careful to insert it squarely into the hole to avoid getting adhesive on the lens.

Step 36

Apply adhesive to the back of the camera and press the frame firmly down onto the camera.
Place the front camera in the holder with a retainer placed on top of the glued assembly to hold it in place as the adhesive dries.

Apply adhesive to the back of the camera and press the frame firmly down onto the camera.

Place the front camera in the holder with a retainer placed on top of the glued assembly to hold it in place as the adhesive dries.

Step 37

After an hour, remove the front camera module. The front camera has been successfully replaced. Remove the Kapton tape from the IR camera and dot projector.
Install the front camera module and test. Turn on the phone. Both the front and rear cameras should work. Face ID should function too.

After an hour, remove the front camera module. The front camera has been successfully replaced. Remove the Kapton tape from the IR camera and dot projector.

Install the front camera module and test. Turn on the phone. Both the front and rear cameras should work. Face ID should function too.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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ShamelaJ - Jan 3, 2023

Really great and detailed! The pictures do an amazing job in aiding with understanding what to do! Thank you!

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Introduction

What you need

Video Overview