Ipad Pro 12 9 2Nd Gen Battery Replacement Repair Guide

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Featured Guide

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 3 hours

Sections

Display Assembly
31 steps
Front Facing Camera
7 steps
Battery
36 steps

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Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

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Introduction

The battery in this iPad is held in place by large adhesive pads. Use plenty of high concentration isopropyl alcohol or iFixit adhesive remover to help remove the battery and to clean any adhesive residue.

For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your device. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide is written for the Wi-Fi model. If you have the cellular model, you’ll need to do some additional disassembly (not noted in this guide).

You’ll need replacement adhesive to reattach components when reassembling the device.

What you need

Step 1

              Tape over a cracked screen

Before starting repairs, take your iPad off the charger and power it down.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear eye protection. The glass may break, sending pieces flying.

Before starting repairs, take your iPad off the charger and power it down.

If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear eye protection. The glass may break, sending pieces flying.

1024

Step 2

              Adhesive tip

Removing the screen involves using an opening pick and/or halberd spudger to separate the adhesive securing the screen to the frame.
As you slice through the adhesive, note the following:
The adhesive on the long edges of the iPad is about 4 mm wide. Avoid slicing deeper than that, or you risk damaging the display panel.
The adhesive on the short edges of the iPad is about 2 mm wide. Avoid slicing deeper than that.
Take especially care when slicing near the home button and charging port to avoid damaging the flex cables.
Take extra care when you slice near the front facing camera, to avoid damaging or smearing it.

Removing the screen involves using an opening pick and/or halberd spudger to separate the adhesive securing the screen to the frame.

As you slice through the adhesive, note the following:

The adhesive on the long edges of the iPad is about 4 mm wide. Avoid slicing deeper than that, or you risk damaging the display panel.

The adhesive on the short edges of the iPad is about 2 mm wide. Avoid slicing deeper than that.

Take especially care when slicing near the home button and charging port to avoid damaging the flex cables.

Take extra care when you slice near the front facing camera, to avoid damaging or smearing it.

Step 3

              Heat the left edge

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 5 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.
The display adhesive of the iPad is strong and the glass breaks easily. You need to reheat and reapply the iOpener in each section several times during the display removal.

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the screen to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 5 minutes.

A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

The display adhesive of the iPad is strong and the glass breaks easily. You need to reheat and reapply the iOpener in each section several times during the display removal.

Step 4

              Apply a suction handle

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the iPad’s screen, above the Smart Connector port and as close to the edge as possible.

Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the iPad’s screen, above the Smart Connector port and as close to the edge as possible.

Step 5

              Insert an opening pick

While holding down the corners of the iPad, repeatedly pull up on the screen, then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive. This will eventually create a small gap in the seam.
If the edge cools down during the pulling process, reheat the edge with an iOpener before proceeding.
Once you’ve created a small gap, insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
Don’t insert your opening pick deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

While holding down the corners of the iPad, repeatedly pull up on the screen, then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive. This will eventually create a small gap in the seam.

If the edge cools down during the pulling process, reheat the edge with an iOpener before proceeding.

Once you’ve created a small gap, insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Don’t insert your opening pick deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Step 6

              Slice the adhesive

Reapply the iOpener to the bottom left corner of the iPad for at least 2 minutes, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.
After letting the adhesive soften, insert an opening pick or halberd spudger into the gap next to the opening pick.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.
Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Reapply the iOpener to the bottom left corner of the iPad for at least 2 minutes, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.

After letting the adhesive soften, insert an opening pick or halberd spudger into the gap next to the opening pick.

Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger to slice the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad. If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Step 7

              Insert an opening pick

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom left corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

              Slice the adhesive

Reapply the iOpener to the upper left corner of the iPad for at least 2 minutes, spanning from the opening pick to the front facing camera.
Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the upper left edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive.
If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Reapply the iOpener to the upper left corner of the iPad for at least 2 minutes, spanning from the opening pick to the front facing camera.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the upper left edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive.

If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Step 9

              Insert an opening pick

Insert an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick underneath the top left corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 10

              Slice the adhesive

Reheat your iOpener and apply it the top edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.
Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the top edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive. Stop before you reach the front-facing camera.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.
If the slicing becomes difficult, reheat the edge and try again.

Reheat your iOpener and apply it the top edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the top edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive. Stop before you reach the front-facing camera.

Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Step 11

              Insert an opening pick

Insert an opening pick underneath the screen just before the front-facing camera to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick underneath the screen just before the front-facing camera to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 12

              Slice the adhesive

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.
Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera.
Use your cutting tool to slice the remaining adhesive underneath the top edge of your device.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.
If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera.

Use your cutting tool to slice the remaining adhesive underneath the top edge of your device.

If the slicing becomes hard, reheat the edge and try again.

Step 13

              Insert an opening pick

Insert an opening pick underneath the upper right corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick underneath the upper right corner of the screen to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14

              Slice the adhesive

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.
Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the right edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 3–4 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.
Insert an opening pick underneath the center of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Apply a heated iOpener to the right edge of the screen for 5 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Use an opening pick or halberd spudger and slide along the right edge of the iPad to slice the adhesive.

Insert an opening pick underneath the center of the right edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 15

              Insert an opening pick

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom right corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Insert an opening pick underneath the bottom right corner of the iPad to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 16

              Slice the adhesive

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.
Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger underneath the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, stopping short about 12 mm before reaching the home button.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the display panel.

Reheat your iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for at least 2 minutes.

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger underneath the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, stopping short about 12 mm before reaching the home button.

Step 17

              Insert an opening pick

Insert an opening pick underneath the screen just before the home button to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
Use the tip of an opening pick or an halberd spudger to slice the adhesive beneath the home button.
Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the home button.

Insert an opening pick underneath the screen just before the home button to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Use the tip of an opening pick or an halberd spudger to slice the adhesive beneath the home button.

Don’t insert your slicing tool deeper than 2 mm, or you risk permanently damaging the home button.

Step 18

              Slice the adhesive

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger just past the home button.
Use your cutting tool to slice the remaining adhesive underneath the bottom edge of your device.

Insert an opening pick or a halberd spudger just past the home button.

Use your cutting tool to slice the remaining adhesive underneath the bottom edge of your device.

Step 19

              Loosen and slice any remaining adhesive

At this point, you’ve sliced through most of the screen adhesive. Use an opening pick to carefully slice any remaining adhesive along the edges until the screen is freed.
If some parts are stubborn, heat the area with an iOpener to loosen the adhesive.

At this point, you’ve sliced through most of the screen adhesive. Use an opening pick to carefully slice any remaining adhesive along the edges until the screen is freed.

If some parts are stubborn, heat the area with an iOpener to loosen the adhesive.

Step 20

              Lift the display

The iPad shown in the following two steps is the iPad Pro 12.9" 1st Generation. The internals look slightly different but the taping procedure is the same.
The display cables in this iPad are very short. Read the next two steps before you proceed.
Do not pivot the screen about the lower edge. The display cables don’t have enough slack to allow for this and will tear if you do not slide the screen towards the front-facing camera as you lift.
The display cables will tear if you raise the screen more than 90º.
Lift up the upper edge of the screen and slide the entire screen towards the front-facing camera to access the iPad’s internal components.
Use masking tape to tape the lower edge of the screen to the frame to prevent the screen from slipping.

The iPad shown in the following two steps is the iPad Pro 12.9" 1st Generation. The internals look slightly different but the taping procedure is the same.

The display cables in this iPad are very short. Read the next two steps before you proceed.

Do not pivot the screen about the lower edge. The display cables don’t have enough slack to allow for this and will tear if you do not slide the screen towards the front-facing camera as you lift.

The display cables will tear if you raise the screen more than 90º.

Lift up the upper edge of the screen and slide the entire screen towards the front-facing camera to access the iPad’s internal components.

Use masking tape to tape the lower edge of the screen to the frame to prevent the screen from slipping.

Step 21

              Prop up the screen

This step shows one way to support the screen using masking tape. You can also turn the iPad sideways. Make sure not to strain the display cables with whatever method you choose.
Attach a long strip of masking tape to the top edge of the screen. Fold the tape over the edge and make sure that the tape is attached securely.
Attach the other end of the strip to the bottom edge of the iPad frame to hold the screen at an angle. Make sure the tape attaches securely to the frame.

This step shows one way to support the screen using masking tape. You can also turn the iPad sideways. Make sure not to strain the display cables with whatever method you choose.

Attach a long strip of masking tape to the top edge of the screen. Fold the tape over the edge and make sure that the tape is attached securely.

Attach the other end of the strip to the bottom edge of the iPad frame to hold the screen at an angle. Make sure the tape attaches securely to the frame.

Step 22

              Unfasten the logic board EMI shield screws

It’s important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the logic board EMI shield:
Two 2.4 mm-long screws
Four 1.2 mm-long screws

It’s important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the six screws securing the logic board EMI shield:

Two 2.4 mm-long screws

Four 1.2 mm-long screws

Step 23

              Remove the logic board EMI shield

Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
Peel up the EMI shield from the logic board.
This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That’s okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when you reinstall it and screw it down.
Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.

Peel up the EMI shield from the logic board.

This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That’s okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when you reinstall it and screw it down.

Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Step 24

              Unfasten the battery connector screw

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

Step 25

              Battery connector information

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has springs on the logic board that press down against the battery contact pads. You’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

Notice that the battery connector has springs on the logic board that press down against the battery contact pads. You’ll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Step 26

              Create a battery blocker

Use a piar of scissors to cut two 6 mm x 20 mm strips of a playing card to use as a battery blocker.

Use a piar of scissors to cut two 6 mm x 20 mm strips of a playing card to use as a battery blocker.

Step 27

              Insert the card strips

Gently insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector as far as they will go.
You can also use an iFixit battery blocker. Be very careful and don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force.

Gently insert the card strips on each side of the battery connector as far as they will go.

You can also use an iFixit battery blocker. Be very careful and don’t push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force.

Step 28

              Unfasten the display connector bracket screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the display connector bracket:
Two 1.2 mm-long screws
Two 2.4 mm-long screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws securing the display connector bracket:

Two 1.2 mm-long screws

Step 29

              Remove the display connector bracket

Remove the display connector bracket.

Remove the display connector bracket.

Step 30

              Disconnect the display cables

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display and digitizer cables from their logic board sockets.
To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
These cables are very delicate, and the connectors can damage easily if they’re misaligned. When you reattach the cables to the logic board, try to have as much slack on the cables and gently press the connectors onto their sockets.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display and digitizer cables from their logic board sockets.

To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

These cables are very delicate, and the connectors can damage easily if they’re misaligned. When you reattach the cables to the logic board, try to have as much slack on the cables and gently press the connectors onto their sockets.

Step 31

              Remove the screen assembly

Remove the screen assembly.

Remove the screen assembly.

Step 32

              Unfasten the top bracket screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the top bracket:
Four 2.2 mm-long screws
Two 1.2 mm-long screws
Two 2.4 mm-long screws

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eight screws securing the top bracket:

Four 2.2 mm-long screws

Step 33

              Loosen the adhesive

The top bracket is still held in place by the two black tapes securing it to the frame.
Apply a heated iOpener to the top bracket for 1 minute to loosen the adhesive.

The top bracket is still held in place by the two black tapes securing it to the frame.

Apply a heated iOpener to the top bracket for 1 minute to loosen the adhesive.

Step 34

              Lift the top bracket

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the top bracket and lift it up until you can grab it with your fingers.

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the top bracket and lift it up until you can grab it with your fingers.

Step 35

              Remove the top bracket

Remove the top bracket.

Remove the top bracket.

Step 36

              Disconnect the front facing camera

Use a spudger to disconnect the front facing camera flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the front facing camera flex cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 37

              Free the front facing camera

The front facing camera is held in place by mild adhesive.
Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up the front camera and to separate it from the frame.

The front facing camera is held in place by mild adhesive.

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry up the front camera and to separate it from the frame.

Step 38

              Remove the front facing camera

The front camera cable is threaded underneath the frame.
Use a pair of tweezers to pull the front facing camera from underneath the frame and remove it.

The front camera cable is threaded underneath the frame.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the front facing camera from underneath the frame and remove it.

Step 39

              Disconnect the top left interconnect cable

Use a spudger to disconnect the top left interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the top left interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 40

              Disconnect the top left coxial cable

Slide the point of a spudger under the top left coxial connector.
Pry straight up to disconnect the top left coxial cable.
Carefully bend the coxial cable upwards to free the logic board.
Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Slide the point of a spudger under the top left coxial connector.

Pry straight up to disconnect the top left coxial cable.

Carefully bend the coxial cable upwards to free the logic board.

Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Step 41

              Disconnect the speaker and headphone jack cable

Use a spudger to disconnect the speaker and headphone jack cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Carefully bend the cable upwards to free the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the speaker and headphone jack cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Carefully bend the cable upwards to free the logic board.

Step 42

              Disconnect the microphone cable

Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the microphone cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 43

              Disconnect the top right interconnect cable

Use a spudger to disconnect the top right interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Use a spudger to disconnect the top right interconnect cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 44

              Disconnect the top right coxial cable

Slide the point of a spudger under the top right coxial connector.
Pry straight up to disconnect the top right coxial cable.
Carefully bend the coxial cable upwards to free the logic board.
Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Slide the point of a spudger under the top right coxial connector.

Pry straight up to disconnect the top right coxial cable.

Step 45

              Disconnect the sensor and volume button cable

Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor and volume button cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Carefully bend the cable upwards to free the logic board.

Use a spudger to disconnect the sensor and volume button cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Step 46

              Peel back the tape

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the black tape off the SIM card reader ZIF connector.
There’s no need to completely remove the tape. Just peel the part off that sticks to the connector.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel the black tape off the SIM card reader ZIF connector.

There’s no need to completely remove the tape. Just peel the part off that sticks to the connector.

Step 47

              Open the ZIF connector

Use the point of a spudger to open the ZIF connector by bringing its black flap in an upright position.

Use the point of a spudger to open the ZIF connector by bringing its black flap in an upright position.

Step 48

              Free the SIM card reader cable

The SIM card reader cable is adhered to the logic board cable.
Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the SIM card reader cable to separate it from the logic board cable.

The SIM card reader cable is adhered to the logic board cable.

Carefully slide an opening pick underneath the SIM card reader cable to separate it from the logic board cable.

Step 49

              Disconnect the SIM card reader cable

Disconnect the SIM card reader cable by carefully pulling it out of the ZIF connector with a pair of tweezers.
Carefully bend the SIM card reader cable upwards to free the logic board.
Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.
During reassembly make sure the flap of the ZIF connector is in an upright position. Push the cable back into the ZIF connector and fold the flap down afterwards.

Disconnect the SIM card reader cable by carefully pulling it out of the ZIF connector with a pair of tweezers.

Carefully bend the SIM card reader cable upwards to free the logic board.

During reassembly make sure the flap of the ZIF connector is in an upright position. Push the cable back into the ZIF connector and fold the flap down afterwards.

Step 50

              Disconnect the antenna cables

Slide a pair of tweezers under the upper antenna cable at the bottom edge of the logic board until they’re snug against the metal connector.
Disconnect the upper antenna cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
Repeat the procedure with the lower antenna cable.

Slide a pair of tweezers under the upper antenna cable at the bottom edge of the logic board until they’re snug against the metal connector.

Disconnect the upper antenna cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

Repeat the procedure with the lower antenna cable.

Step 51

              Loosen the antenna cable adhesive

Both antenna cables are taped down to the frame.
Apply a heated iOpener to the antenna cables for 1 minute to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Both antenna cables are taped down to the frame.

Apply a heated iOpener to the antenna cables for 1 minute to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 52

              Free the right antenna cable

Use tweezers to gently lift the right antenna cable connector away from the frame.
Take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.
Use your fingers or tweezers to lift and peel up the the right antenna cable from the iPad frame.
Don’t pull the cable forcefully. If the cable feels stuck, reapply a heated iOpener to further soften the adhesive.

Use tweezers to gently lift the right antenna cable connector away from the frame.

Take care not to puncture the battery—a punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

Use your fingers or tweezers to lift and peel up the the right antenna cable from the iPad frame.

Don’t pull the cable forcefully. If the cable feels stuck, reapply a heated iOpener to further soften the adhesive.

Step 53

              Free the left antenna cable

Repeat the previous step and use your fingers or tweezers to lift and peel up the the left antenna cable from the iPad frame.
Don’t pull the cable forcefully. If the cable feels stuck, apply a heated iOpener to further soften the adhesive.

Repeat the previous step and use your fingers or tweezers to lift and peel up the the left antenna cable from the iPad frame.

Don’t pull the cable forcefully. If the cable feels stuck, apply a heated iOpener to further soften the adhesive.

Step 54

              Fold over the smart connector tape

Use a pair of tweezers to fold the smart connector tape to the side to get free access to the smart connector bracket.

Use a pair of tweezers to fold the smart connector tape to the side to get free access to the smart connector bracket.

Step 55

              Unfasten the smart connector bracket screw

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 1.3 mm-long screw securing the smart connector bracket.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 1.3 mm-long screw securing the smart connector bracket.

Step 56

              Remove the smart connector bracket

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the smart connector bracket from underneath the frame and remove it.

Use a pair of tweezers to pull the smart connector bracket from underneath the frame and remove it.

Step 57

              Disconnect the smart connector

Use a spudger to disconnect the smart connector cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.
Carefully bend the smart connector cable upwards to free the battery.
Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.

Use a spudger to disconnect the smart connector cable by prying the connector straight up from its socket.

Carefully bend the smart connector cable upwards to free the battery.

Step 58

              Reassembly tips

During reassembly, follow these tips when you lower the logic board into position:
Be careful not to trap any of the connectors underneath the logic board.
Reinsert the battery blocker into position.

During reassembly, follow these tips when you lower the logic board into position:

Be careful not to trap any of the connectors underneath the logic board.

Reinsert the battery blocker into position.

Step 59

              Loosen the logic board adhesive

Both the logic board and the logic board cable are adhered to the iPad frame.
Apply a heated iOpener to the back of the device where the logic board is located to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device.

Both the logic board and the logic board cable are adhered to the iPad frame.

Apply a heated iOpener to the back of the device where the logic board is located to loosen the adhesive underneath. Apply the iOpener for at least 2 minutes.

Step 60

              Loosen the logic board

The next four steps show how to move the logic board out of the way for battery removal. Read the steps first before you attempt it.
Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the top edge of the logic board.
Carefully lift the logic board by levering the spudger downwards.
Make sure no cables are tangled or interfere with the motherboard during this procedure to avoid cable damage.
Don’t try to completely remove the logic board. It’s attached to a flex cable that’s glued to the iPad frame.

The next four steps show how to move the logic board out of the way for battery removal. Read the steps first before you attempt it.

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the top edge of the logic board.

Carefully lift the logic board by levering the spudger downwards.

Make sure no cables are tangled or interfere with the motherboard during this procedure to avoid cable damage.

Don’t try to completely remove the logic board. It’s attached to a flex cable that’s glued to the iPad frame.

Step 61

              Relocate the spudger

Relocate the spudger and place it at a right angle underneath the logic board to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Relocate the spudger and place it at a right angle underneath the logic board to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 62

              Remove the battery blocker

Remove the loose battery blocker and save it for reassembly.

Remove the loose battery blocker and save it for reassembly.

Step 63

              Loosen the logic board cable adhesive

Reapply a heated iOpener to the logic board cable for 2 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Reapply a heated iOpener to the logic board cable for 2 minutes to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 64

              Fold over the logic board

Lift the logic board slightly and swing it over its flex cable.
Do not force this action. If there isn’t enough slack, apply more heat to the flex cable to loosen the adhesive.
Do not fold the cable sharply and only bend it to avoid cable damage.
During reassembly, apply some Tesa tape or double-sided tape to the flex cable to secure it to the iPad frame.
Once you swing the logic board completely over its flex cable, you can use a piece of tape to secure the logic board out of the way of the battery.

Lift the logic board slightly and swing it over its flex cable.

Do not force this action. If there isn’t enough slack, apply more heat to the flex cable to loosen the adhesive.

During reassembly, apply some Tesa tape or double-sided tape to the flex cable to secure it to the iPad frame.

Once you swing the logic board completely over its flex cable, you can use a piece of tape to secure the logic board out of the way of the battery.

Step 65

              Battery adhesive locations

There are four large adhesive pads securing the iPad battery.
To attach a replacement battery, use some double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, or use some stretch release adhesive strips.

There are four large adhesive pads securing the iPad battery.

To attach a replacement battery, use some double-sided tape such as Tesa tape, or use some stretch release adhesive strips.

Step 66

              Loosen the bottom left battery cell

Tilt the iPad and apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the inside and bottom edge of the bottom left battery cell.
Wait about two minutes for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.

Tilt the iPad and apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to the inside and bottom edge of the bottom left battery cell.

Wait about two minutes for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive.

Step 67

Slowly slide an plastic card under the bottom left battery cell to separate it from the frame.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If you’re having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and wait for the adhesive to loosen.
Alternatively, you can use dental floss to slice through the adhesive. Wrap the floss around a bit driver handle or your fingers and thread it back and forth under the battery.

Slowly slide an plastic card under the bottom left battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

If you’re having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and wait for the adhesive to loosen.

Alternatively, you can use dental floss to slice through the adhesive. Wrap the floss around a bit driver handle or your fingers and thread it back and forth under the battery.

Step 68

              Loosen the top left battery cell

Repeat the previous procedure to separate the top left battery cell from the frame:
Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to loosen the battery adhesive.
Slide a plastic card underneath the top left battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Repeat the previous procedure to separate the top left battery cell from the frame:

Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to loosen the battery adhesive.

Slide a plastic card underneath the top left battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Step 69

              Lift the left half of the battery

Make sure the left half of the battery is fully separated from the frame by grabbing it on both ends and carefully lift it upwards.
If the battery is sticking to the frame use your plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive to completely separate the left half of the battery from the frame.
Place a plastic card underneath the center of the left half of the battery to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Make sure the left half of the battery is fully separated from the frame by grabbing it on both ends and carefully lift it upwards.

If the battery is sticking to the frame use your plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive to completely separate the left half of the battery from the frame.

Place a plastic card underneath the center of the left half of the battery to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 70

              Loosen the top right battery cell

Step 71

Slowly slide an plastic card under the bottom left battery cell to separate it from the frame.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.
If you’re having difficulty separating the adhesive, apply more high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol and wait for the adhesive to loosen.

Step 72

              Loosen the bottom right battery cell

Repeat the previous procedure to separate the bottom right battery cell from the frame:
Apply a few drops of high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol to loosen the battery adhesive.
Slide a plastic card underneath the top left battery cell to separate it from the frame.

Repeat the previous procedure to separate the bottom right battery cell from the frame:

Step 73

              Remove the battery

Lift up the battery and remove it from the iPad.
Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Lift up the battery and remove it from the iPad.

Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

Step 74

              Remove the adhesive residue

Before you install a new battery:
Remove all adhesive residue from the iPad frame. Use isopropyl alcohol and a spudger to scrape off any adhesive chunks. Wipe away the adhesive residue with a lint-free cloth.
If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the iPad, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry.
Be sure that the iPad frame surface is completely clean and free of debris. An uneven surface can press into the replacement battery, resulting in premature battery failure.

Before you install a new battery:

Remove all adhesive residue from the iPad frame. Use isopropyl alcohol and a spudger to scrape off any adhesive chunks. Wipe away the adhesive residue with a lint-free cloth.

If there’s any alcohol solution remaining in the iPad, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry.

Be sure that the iPad frame surface is completely clean and free of debris. An uneven surface can press into the replacement battery, resulting in premature battery failure.

If possible, turn on your device and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

During reassembly, apply new adhesive where it’s necessary after cleaning the relevant areas with isopropyl alcohol (>90%).

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.

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                    Dominik Schnabelrauch

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