Ipad Mini 3 Lte Logic Board Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Very difficult

Steps

106

Time Required

Suggest a time??

Sections

iOpener Heating
4 steps
LCD Shield Plate
35 steps
LCD
5 steps
Left Antenna Cable
5 steps
Left Antenna Cable
3 steps
Right Speaker
8 steps
Logic Board
46 steps

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Introduction

Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.

What you need

Step 1

              iOpener Heating

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

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Step 2

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Step 3

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Step 4

              Alternate iOpener heating method

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

If you don’t have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

Step 5

              LCD Shield Plate

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad’s display until the whole face is covered.

This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Step 6

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Step 7

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.

Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

Step 8

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
Don’t insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Pull the suction cup’s plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

Don’t insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

Pull the suction cup’s plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Step 9

Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

Step 10

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you’re working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you’re working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Step 11

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, “roll” the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Step 12

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don’t panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don’t panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Step 13

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

Step 14

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Step 15

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.
Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.

Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Step 16

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Step 17

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Step 18

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable.

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Be very careful of the small antenna cable near the upper-right corner. Only slide the pick away from the camera—while sliding it in the opposite direction you may accidentally tear the antenna cable.

Step 19

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Step 20

Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.

Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Step 21

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Step 22

Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

Step 23

Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.
Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Step 24

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
Antennas
Home button cavity
Digitizer cable
The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.

Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.

There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:

Antennas

Home button cavity

Digitizer cable

The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Step 25

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.
Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.

Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.

If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.

Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Step 26

Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step’s pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.
Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step’s pick, and slide it beneath the home button.

Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.

Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.

Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

Step 27

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

Step 28

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you’ve been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.
At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you’ve been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don’t be afraid to stop and reheat.

At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.

If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

Step 29

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

Step 30

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
If you plan to reuse the front panel assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.

If you plan to reuse the front panel assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

Step 31

The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.
Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.

Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.

Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

Step 32

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:
Three 3.3 mm screws
One 4.5 mm screw
If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the LCD:

Three 3.3 mm screws

One 4.5 mm screw

If there is tape covering any LCD screws, peel it up with tweezers.

Step 33

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.
Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate. It must be between the LCD and the shield.
Even bending the LCD slightly can permanently damage it, so be extremely careful as you lift.

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the LCD between it and the LCD shield plate and lift gently.

Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate. It must be between the LCD and the shield.

Even bending the LCD slightly can permanently damage it, so be extremely careful as you lift.

Step 34

The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.
Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

The LCD is secured by mild adhesive that should be loosened before you flip the LCD up from its shield plate.

Insert the spudger between the LCD and LCD shield plate and slide it to the far edge of the iPad.

Step 35

Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.
Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.
Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.
Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.

Hold the LCD with one hand, and the rear body of the iPad with the other.

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD from the iPad.

Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers to separate the tape, being careful not to pull on the digitizer cable.

Step 36

Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.
Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.
Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

Lay the LCD on the front panel glass to allow access to the display cables.

Step 37

Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.
Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

Slide the tip of a spudger between the LCD and the adhesive tabs to free the display.

Push gently between each of the two adhesive tabs; be careful not to damage any of the nearby cables.

Step 38

Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

Remove the seven 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the LCD shield plate.

Step 39

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.
Remove the LCD shield plate.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD shield plate up and out of the iPad.

Remove the LCD shield plate.

Step 40

LCD

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:
One 2.7 mm screw
Two 1.4 mm screws

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the display cable bracket:

One 2.7 mm screw

Two 1.4 mm screws

Step 41

Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

Remove the display cable bracket from the iPad.

Step 42

Use the flat tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Use the flat tip of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Step 43

Use spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.
Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Use spudger to lift the LCD connector up off its socket on the logic board.

Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Step 44

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Step 45

              Left Antenna Cable

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the left antenna:
One 2.6 mm screw
Two 1.5 mm screws

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the left antenna:

One 2.6 mm screw

Two 1.5 mm screws

Step 46

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the left speaker.

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the left speaker.

Step 47

Use the flat end of a spudger to fold the wide left-hand piece of tape away from the left speaker.

Use the flat end of a spudger to fold the wide left-hand piece of tape away from the left speaker.

Step 48

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.
Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape to free it and keep it from resealing.

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.

Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape to free it and keep it from resealing.

Step 49

Pull the antenna cable from the clip behind the Lightning connector.

Pull the antenna cable from the clip behind the Lightning connector.

Step 50

              Left Antenna Cable

Pull the wide tape toward the battery, applying constant force to peel it from the antenna cable lodged between it and the speaker.
Insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, to break the adhesive connecting the two.
Slide the plastic opening tool along the length of the antenna cable to completely separate it from the piece of tape.

Pull the wide tape toward the battery, applying constant force to peel it from the antenna cable lodged between it and the speaker.

Insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, to break the adhesive connecting the two.

Slide the plastic opening tool along the length of the antenna cable to completely separate it from the piece of tape.

Step 51

Lift the antenna cable tape up from behind the right speaker.

Lift the antenna cable tape up from behind the right speaker.

Step 52

Pull the antenna cable out from under the corner of the right speaker.

Pull the antenna cable out from under the corner of the right speaker.

Step 53

              Right Speaker

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the right antenna:
Three 1.5 mm screws
One 2.6 mm screw

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws from the right antenna:

Three 1.5 mm screws

Step 54

Use the flat end of a spudger to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna to the right speaker.

Use the flat end of a spudger to cut the foam adhesive securing the antenna to the right speaker.

Step 55

Pull the bend of the antenna cable out of the corner of the case.
Fold the antenna out of the way of the right speaker.

Pull the bend of the antenna cable out of the corner of the case.

Fold the antenna out of the way of the right speaker.

Step 56

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the right speaker to the rear case:
One 1.9 mm screw
One 1.7 mm screw with a large head
There is a washer beneath this screw. Be careful not to pull up and lose the washer when you remove the screw.

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the right speaker to the rear case:

One 1.9 mm screw

One 1.7 mm screw with a large head

There is a washer beneath this screw. Be careful not to pull up and lose the washer when you remove the screw.

Step 57

Remove the speaker contact washer from the iPad.

Remove the speaker contact washer from the iPad.

Step 58

Push the speaker with the flat end of a spudger to begin sliding it out of its recess in the rear case.

Push the speaker with the flat end of a spudger to begin sliding it out of its recess in the rear case.

Step 59

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.

Step 60

Remove the speaker from the iPad.
During reassembly, make sure the two speaker contacts are placed above and below the screw hole on the Lightning connector.

Remove the speaker from the iPad.

During reassembly, make sure the two speaker contacts are placed above and below the screw hole on the Lightning connector.

Step 61

              Logic Board

Use a set of tweezers to remove any tape covering the front-facing camera cable clips.

Use a set of tweezers to remove any tape covering the front-facing camera cable clips.

Step 62

Use a plastic opening tool to fold the front-facing camera cable clips outward, away from the cable, to free the cable connector.

Use a plastic opening tool to fold the front-facing camera cable clips outward, away from the cable, to free the cable connector.

Step 63

With the flat end of a spudger, lift the front-facing camera connector straight up off of its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to only pry on the connector, not the socket itself.
Gently fold the front-facing camera cable towards the camera, moving it out of the way of the cable under it.

With the flat end of a spudger, lift the front-facing camera connector straight up off of its socket on the logic board.

Be sure to only pry on the connector, not the socket itself.

Gently fold the front-facing camera cable towards the camera, moving it out of the way of the cable under it.

Step 64

Use a set of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

Use a set of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

Step 65

Use a plastic opening tool to fold the headphone jack cable clips outward, away from the cable, freeing the cable connector.

Use a plastic opening tool to fold the headphone jack cable clips outward, away from the cable, freeing the cable connector.

Step 66

Pry the headphone jack cable’s connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to only pry on the connector, not the socket itself.
Lift the headphone jack cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Pry the headphone jack cable’s connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Lift the headphone jack cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Step 67

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the top left antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be sure to only pry on the connector, not the socket itself.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the top left antenna cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Step 68

Remove any tape from the rear-facing camera cable bracket.

Remove any tape from the rear-facing camera cable bracket.

Step 69

Use a plastic opening tool to push the rear-facing camera cable bracket to the left.

Use a plastic opening tool to push the rear-facing camera cable bracket to the left.

Step 70

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the front edge of the bracket.

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the front edge of the bracket.

Step 71

Remove the bracket with tweezers.
During reassembly, hook the top edge of the plate in place first, then lower the bottom into its slots before sliding it to the right.

Remove the bracket with tweezers.

During reassembly, hook the top edge of the plate in place first, then lower the bottom into its slots before sliding it to the right.

Step 72

Remove the following three screws securing the upper right antenna to the rear case:
Two 1.3 mm #00 Phillips screws from the side of the antenna’s socket.
One 1.8 mm #00 Phillips screw.

Remove the following three screws securing the upper right antenna to the rear case:

Two 1.3 mm #00 Phillips screws from the side of the antenna’s socket.

One 1.8 mm #00 Phillips screw.

Step 73

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper right antenna’s coaxial connector from the logic board.
Gently bend the cable tab up out of the way of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper right antenna’s coaxial connector from the logic board.

Gently bend the cable tab up out of the way of the logic board.

Step 74

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper right antenna connector.
Fold the cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper right antenna connector.

Fold the cable up out of the way of the logic board.

Step 75

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.
Be careful to only pry on the connector, not on the socket itself.
Fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way of the logic board.

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera cable from its socket on the logic board.

Be careful to only pry on the connector, not on the socket itself.

Fold the rear-facing camera cable out of the way of the logic board.

Step 76

Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the case button cable bracket.

Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips #00 screw securing the case button cable bracket.

Step 77

Remove the case button cable bracket from the iPad.
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the case button cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
Fold the cable out of the way of the logic board.

Remove the case button cable bracket from the iPad.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the case button cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

Fold the cable out of the way of the logic board.

Step 78

Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors straight up off of their sockets on the logic board.

Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors straight up off of their sockets on the logic board.

Step 79

Use the point of a spudger to pull the antenna cable clip toward the battery to allow access to the cables.

Use the point of a spudger to pull the antenna cable clip toward the battery to allow access to the cables.

Step 80

Deroute and remove both antennas from the iPad.

Deroute and remove both antennas from the iPad.

Step 81

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the left speaker to the rear case:
One 1.9 mm screw
One 1.7 mm screw

Remove the following Phillips #00 screws securing the left speaker to the rear case:

One 1.7 mm screw

Step 82

The screw through the Lightning connector has a small washer resting on the speaker contacts. Be sure not to misplace it.
Remove the speaker contact washer from the iPad.

The screw through the Lightning connector has a small washer resting on the speaker contacts. Be sure not to misplace it.

Step 83

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.
Push the spudger in to slide the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

Push the spudger in to slide the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

Step 84

Push from the Lightning connector end with the flat end of a spudger to free the speaker from the lip of the rear case.

Push from the Lightning connector end with the flat end of a spudger to free the speaker from the lip of the rear case.

Step 85

Step 86

The battery is held to the iPad case with some adhesive that will need to be heated in order to be separated.
Heat an iOpener and place it in the center of the back of the iPad case.
After a minute, reheat the iOpener and place it on the right side of the iPad, the side farthest from the camera.

The battery is held to the iPad case with some adhesive that will need to be heated in order to be separated.

Heat an iOpener and place it in the center of the back of the iPad case.

After a minute, reheat the iOpener and place it on the right side of the iPad, the side farthest from the camera.

Step 87

Throughout the following procedure, you’ll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.
Insert a plastic card under the battery from the Lightning cable connector end of the iPad.
If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

Throughout the following procedure, you’ll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.

Insert a plastic card under the battery from the Lightning cable connector end of the iPad.

If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

Step 88

Remove the plastic card and insert it under the cell nearest the edge of the case.

Remove the plastic card and insert it under the cell nearest the edge of the case.

Step 89

Insert a second plastic card beneath the battery on the logic board side near the front-facing camera.

Insert a second plastic card beneath the battery on the logic board side near the front-facing camera.

Step 90

Remove the second card and reinsert it under the battery near the headphone jack.

Remove the second card and reinsert it under the battery near the headphone jack.

Step 91

Grasp both cards and slowly pull the case-side cell of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.
Peel slowly and try not to bend the battery cell.

Grasp both cards and slowly pull the case-side cell of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.

Peel slowly and try not to bend the battery cell.

Step 92

Move the right-hand card up under the other battery cell.

Move the right-hand card up under the other battery cell.

Step 93

Push the left-hand card up toward the logic board.

Push the left-hand card up toward the logic board.

Step 94

Grip both cards and use them to lift the battery up off the rear case.
Remove the battery from the iPad.

Grip both cards and use them to lift the battery up off the rear case.

Remove the battery from the iPad.

Step 95

Peel up the tape covering the Lightning connector cable.

Peel up the tape covering the Lightning connector cable.

Step 96

Use a set of tweezers to remove the small plastic covers on the screws in the Lightning connector housing.

Use a set of tweezers to remove the small plastic covers on the screws in the Lightning connector housing.

Step 97

Remove the two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the Lightning connector housing.

Remove the two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the Lightning connector housing.

Step 98

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw from the logic board.

Remove the single 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screw from the logic board.

Step 99

The logic board is held in place by two strips of adhesive.
One under the upper component tab, and one under the Lightning connector ribbon cable.
In the following steps pry only where directed so as to avoid damaging your logic board.

The logic board is held in place by two strips of adhesive.

One under the upper component tab, and one under the Lightning connector ribbon cable.

In the following steps pry only where directed so as to avoid damaging your logic board.

Step 100

Place a heated iOpener on the bottom of the rear case for one minute.

Place a heated iOpener on the bottom of the rear case for one minute.

Step 101

The Lightning connector cable is stuck to the case with some adhesive. To detach the adhesive you will be sliding an opening pick between the cable and the case. Be very careful not to cut the Lightning connector cable itself.
Carefully insert an opening pick under the ribbon cable near the Lighting connector housing.
Slide the opening pick toward the logic board, but stop half an inch from the bend in the cable.
Continuing farther along the ribbon cable risks cutting it.

The Lightning connector cable is stuck to the case with some adhesive. To detach the adhesive you will be sliding an opening pick between the cable and the case. Be very careful not to cut the Lightning connector cable itself.

Carefully insert an opening pick under the ribbon cable near the Lighting connector housing.

Slide the opening pick toward the logic board, but stop half an inch from the bend in the cable.

Continuing farther along the ribbon cable risks cutting it.

Step 102

Reinsert the opening pick under the Lightning connector ribbon cable from the case-side edge.
Slide the pick along the Lightning connector ribbon cable and under the logic board.
Move slowly and carefully. If the opening pick does not slide easily, apply more heat and try again. If you use excessive force, you will likely slip and sever the Lightning connector cable.
Leave the pick under the Lightning connector cable to keep the adhesive separated.

Reinsert the opening pick under the Lightning connector ribbon cable from the case-side edge.

Slide the pick along the Lightning connector ribbon cable and under the logic board.

Move slowly and carefully. If the opening pick does not slide easily, apply more heat and try again. If you use excessive force, you will likely slip and sever the Lightning connector cable.

Leave the pick under the Lightning connector cable to keep the adhesive separated.

Step 103

Reheat the iOpener and place it at the top of the rear case of the iPad for one minute.

Reheat the iOpener and place it at the top of the rear case of the iPad for one minute.

Step 104

Carefully slide a second opening pick under the logic board to the right of the front-facing camera.
Try to keep the opening pick as flat as possible to avoid bending or breaking the thin tab of the logic board.

Carefully slide a second opening pick under the logic board to the right of the front-facing camera.

Try to keep the opening pick as flat as possible to avoid bending or breaking the thin tab of the logic board.

Step 105

Carefully insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear-facing camera and the top of the logic board.
Pry the logic board up enough to grab it with your fingers.
Be extremely careful not to damage the rear-facing camera cable, or any logic board components.
If the logic board does not lift easily, there may still be adhesive holding it to the rear case. Try sliding the pick farther before prying again.

Carefully insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear-facing camera and the top of the logic board.

Pry the logic board up enough to grab it with your fingers.

Be extremely careful not to damage the rear-facing camera cable, or any logic board components.

If the logic board does not lift easily, there may still be adhesive holding it to the rear case. Try sliding the pick farther before prying again.

Step 106

Lift the logic board by the camera end and gently pull the Lightning connector housing out of the rear case.
Remove the logic board from the iPad.
If there is any resistance from the Lighting port cable stop pulling to avoid ripping the cable. Slide the opening pick under the length of the cable again to fully free it from the rear case.

Lift the logic board by the camera end and gently pull the Lightning connector housing out of the rear case.

Remove the logic board from the iPad.

If there is any resistance from the Lighting port cable stop pulling to avoid ripping the cable. Slide the opening pick under the length of the cable again to fully free it from the rear case.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Sam Goldheart

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xlukebearx - Sep 24, 2018

Will the adhesive stick once you slide off the screen, or do you need to replace it?

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