Featured

Featured Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

24

Time Required

                          1 hour

Sections

6

  • Access Door
  • 1 step
  • Glass Panel
  • 2 steps
  • Front Bezel
  • 3 steps
  • Display Panel
  • 5 steps
  • Hard Drive
  • 7 steps
  • Hard Drive
  • 6 steps

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Introduction

What you need

Video Overview

Step 1

              Access Door
  • Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
  • This screw is captive in the access door.
  • Remove the access door from your iMac.

Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.

This screw is captive in the access door.

Remove the access door from your iMac.

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Step 2

              Glass Panel
  • The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.
  • Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.
  • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.
  • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

The glass panel is fixed onto the front bezel with fourteen magnets around its perimeter.

Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.

To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent such as Windex.

Step 3

  • Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.
  • The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.
  • Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.

The glass panel has several positioning pins around its perimeter. To avoid shearing these pins off the glass panel, be sure to only pull straight up during removal.

Be meticulous about cleaning the LCD and the inside face of the glass panel before reinstallation, as any fingerprints or dust trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the display is on. Placing the glass flat, inside face down, on a fresh aluminum-foil surface is a good way to keep it clean.

Step 4

              Front Bezel
  • Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:
  • Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.
  • Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:

Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.

Four 25 mm T8 Torx.

Step 5

  • Place your hands at the top corners of the bezel (to the side) and lift the bezel 2-3cm from the body by working from the top. After this you can also disengage the bottom of the bezel (the memory modules will prevent the bottom of the bezel to detach first). When reassembling, start with the bottom of the bezel.
  • The top of the bezel hosts a microphone attached to the logic board. Gently lift the bezel to not damage the microphone wiring or connector by accidentally pulling the cable.
  • At this point, you can either detach the microphone cable and remove the bezel, or keep the microphone cable attached and rest the bezel on your work surface or the chassis of the Mac.
  • To fully detach the bezel: disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.
  • To keep it attached, leave the microphone cable attached to the logic board, and place the bezel ‘above’ the chassis, with the microphone cable forming a hinge.
  • If you keep the microphone attached to the chassis, make sure you don’t accidentally damage the microphone or logic board by bumping into the loose bezel.

Place your hands at the top corners of the bezel (to the side) and lift the bezel 2-3cm from the body by working from the top. After this you can also disengage the bottom of the bezel (the memory modules will prevent the bottom of the bezel to detach first). When reassembling, start with the bottom of the bezel.

The top of the bezel hosts a microphone attached to the logic board. Gently lift the bezel to not damage the microphone wiring or connector by accidentally pulling the cable.

At this point, you can either detach the microphone cable and remove the bezel, or keep the microphone cable attached and rest the bezel on your work surface or the chassis of the Mac.

To fully detach the bezel: disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.

To keep it attached, leave the microphone cable attached to the logic board, and place the bezel ‘above’ the chassis, with the microphone cable forming a hinge.

If you keep the microphone attached to the chassis, make sure you don’t accidentally damage the microphone or logic board by bumping into the loose bezel.

Step 6

  • When reassembling the bezel:
  • be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.
  • Gently guide the microphone connector and cables through the ±1in long slot at the right of the iSight camera. Once the bezel is properly assembled, gently push the microphone connector and cable into the bezel through that slot.

When reassembling the bezel:

be sure to tuck the microphone cable and connector into the void next to the camera board.

Gently guide the microphone connector and cables through the ±1in long slot at the right of the iSight camera. Once the bezel is properly assembled, gently push the microphone connector and cable into the bezel through that slot.

Step 7

              Display Panel
  • Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
  • If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.
  • When you remove the LCD, check the routing of the LCD temperature display cable. On reinstalling the display, be sure this cable does not block one of the bottom screws for the front bezel.

Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.

When you remove the LCD, check the routing of the LCD temperature display cable. On reinstalling the display, be sure this cable does not block one of the bottom screws for the front bezel.

Step 8

  • Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.

Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.

Step 9

  • Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.

Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.

Step 10

  • Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.
  • Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.

Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.

Step 11

  • With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.
  • During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush.
  • During reassembly, the order of the inverter cables is interchangeable within each socket.
  • If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.

With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.

During reinstallation, place the four inverter cable connectors in voids between components attached to the rear panel so the display panel will sit flush.

During reassembly, the order of the inverter cables is interchangeable within each socket.

If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.

Step 12

              Hard Drive
  • If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

If necessary, remove the pieces of tape securing the hard drive/optical drive thermal sensor cables to your iMac.

Step 13

  • Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.
  • When removing this connector, it is helpful use your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top of your iMac.

Disconnect the hard drive thermal sensor by pulling its connector toward the top of your iMac.

When removing this connector, it is helpful use your thumbnails to push the ears on either side of the connector toward the top of your iMac.

Step 14

  • Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force. We recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.
  • Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.

Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force. We recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.

Press the hard drive bracket down toward the bottom edge of your iMac to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.

Step 15

  • Rotate the hard drive toward yourself, then lift it up off its mounting pins.
  • The hard drive is still connected via the SATA cables.
  • When reinstalling your hard drive, be careful not to push the rubber grommets through the openings in the chassis with the lower hard drive pins as retrieving them may require logic board removal.

Rotate the hard drive toward yourself, then lift it up off its mounting pins.

The hard drive is still connected via the SATA cables.

When reinstalling your hard drive, be careful not to push the rubber grommets through the openings in the chassis with the lower hard drive pins as retrieving them may require logic board removal.

Step 16

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger between the SATA power cable connector and the edge of the hard drive.
  • Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the hard drive.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the SATA power cable connector and the edge of the hard drive.

Twist the spudger to separate the connector from the hard drive.

Step 17

  • Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.

Pull the SATA power connector away from the hard drive.

Step 18

  • Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

Disconnect the SATA data cable by pulling its connector away from the hard drive.

Step 19

              Hard Drive
  • Remove the piece of foam tape covering the hard drive thermal sensor.

Remove the piece of foam tape covering the hard drive thermal sensor.

Step 20

  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the thermal sensor lock finger while pulling lightly on the thermal sensor cable.
  • If your thermal sensor seems to be stuck to the face of the hard drive, skip to the next step.

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the thermal sensor lock finger while pulling lightly on the thermal sensor cable.

If your thermal sensor seems to be stuck to the face of the hard drive, skip to the next step.

Step 21

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the thermal sensor bracket off the face of the hard drive.
  • If you’re replacing your hard drive, transfer this bracket and the thermal sensor to your new hard drive. If the adhesive refuses to stick during reinstallation, apply double-stick tape to the underside of the two flat ears of the thermal sensor bracket.

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the thermal sensor bracket off the face of the hard drive.

If you’re replacing your hard drive, transfer this bracket and the thermal sensor to your new hard drive. If the adhesive refuses to stick during reinstallation, apply double-stick tape to the underside of the two flat ears of the thermal sensor bracket.

Step 22

  • Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the hard drive.
  • After you remove these two screws, the hard drive bracket will fall away from the hard drive.
  • Don’t forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

Remove the two T8 Torx screws securing the hard drive bracket to the hard drive.

After you remove these two screws, the hard drive bracket will fall away from the hard drive.

Don’t forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

Step 23

  • Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the connector side of your hard drive.
  • Don’t forget to transfer these to your new hard drive.

Remove the two T8 Torx pins from the connector side of your hard drive.

Step 24

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of EMI foam from the underside of your hard drive.
  • Don’t forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.
  • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the piece of EMI foam from the underside of your hard drive.

Don’t forget to transfer this to your new hard drive.

If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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                    Walter Galan

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Jim Laredo - Feb 21, 2010

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kevinp - Aug 17, 2010

Reply

Great directions. The 250 GB Segate in my 2133 failed SMART (two years old) so I replaced it with a 1TB WD Blue drive.

Mr Mike - Jan 9, 2011

Reply

Wonderful guide. I used it to replace a dead drive in my wife’s 24" iMac. Installed a WD Caviar Black 2 TB. I’m jealous because her system now runs faster than mine ;-P.

Here is another reason to DIY this repair, while Apple’s labor fee is reasonable, their warranty policy for repairs is not. If you have a new drive installed at the Apple store, your warranty on the drive is only 90 days. Worse yet, the drives are Apple branded, so you can’t go to the hard drive manufacturer if the drive fails on day 91.

Gunnar Hoffsten - Jul 15, 2011

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The two screws in step 8, page 3 are T7 - not T6. Apart from that, excellent guide!

thcdineen - Dec 11, 2011

Reply

When first starting with my OS (Snow Leopard) disk all I got was a whitish or gray screen, not even the mouse. So I started freaking out a bit. I couldn’t get the key board to stay on so I kept pushing the keyboard power button while holding the option button and then the mouse arrow came up on the screen. After that the apple sign and then the install procedure started, so I was able to breathe again. So about five in the morning I was able to let it do it’s thing and get some sleep. The next day I was able to restore from the external hard drive using Time Machine and so far my IMac 20" 7,1 #2133 is running super fast again probably better than when I got it brand new " if that’s possible “. With your instructions on I fixit.com and your videos on YouTube it was pretty darn easy, even for someone like me who has never worked on a computer. The most I’ve done on a computer I installed a new program (Snow Leopard). Thank you, Tom D.