Imac 27 2017 Power Supply Replacement Repair Guide

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

                          1 - 2 hours

Sections

Display Assembly
23 steps
Lower Support Bracket
2 steps
Left Speaker
6 steps
Hard Drive Assembly
4 steps
Power Supply
5 steps

Flags

BackiMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display (Mid 2017)
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Introduction

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply’s capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

What you need

Step 1

              Install the service wedge

With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.
If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

If you are using the iFixit cardboard service wedge, follow these assembly directions to put it together.

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Step 2

              Insert an opening tool

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert it no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage if you insert the tool too far.

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert it no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage if you insert the tool too far.

Step 3

              Slice through the display adhesive

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.
Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.
Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

Step 4

              Cut through the remaining adhesive

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Step 5

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

Step 6

Continue along the top of the display.
You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you’ve already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Continue along the top of the display.

You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you’ve already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

Step 7

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

Step 8

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

Step 9

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.
At this point, you’ll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

At this point, you’ll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

Step 10

              Separate the display

While the opening tool did the lion’s share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.
Set the iMac face-up on a table.
Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

While the opening tool did the lion’s share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

Set the iMac face-up on a table.

Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

Step 11

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.
Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don’t try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.

Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don’t try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

Step 12

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.
Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Step 13

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

Step 14

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Step 15

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.
As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

Step 16

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Step 17

Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Step 18

With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.
If there are any sections that seem to stick and won’t separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.
Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

If there are any sections that seem to stick and won’t separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

Step 19

              Disconnect the display cables

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.
Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Step 20

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.
Disconnect the display data cable.
This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

Disconnect the display data cable.

This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

Step 21

              Lift the display

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.
At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

Step 22

              Remove the remaining adhesive

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).
Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.
Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.
If either adhesive strip breaks before it’s removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Grasp the small tab at the end of one of the bottom edge display adhesive strips and pull the adhesive toward the top of the iMac to remove it.

Repeat this step with the other adhesive strip and remove it.

If either adhesive strip breaks before it’s removed, use a plastic card to slice through the remaining adhesive.

Step 23

              Remove the display

Be very careful handling the display—it’s big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.
Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.
It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

Be very careful handling the display—it’s big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

Step 24

              Remove the support bracket

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 3.2 mm screws securing the support bracket.
You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the nine 3.2 mm screws securing the support bracket.

You may need to peel up the display adhesive lining the bottom edge of the iMac enclosure to access the screws.

Step 25

Remove the lower support bracket (a.k.a. “chin strap”) from the iMac enclosure.

Remove the lower support bracket (a.k.a. “chin strap”) from the iMac enclosure.

Step 26

              Remove the left speaker

Remove two 10 mm T10 screws.

Remove two 10 mm T10 screws.

Step 27

Unplug the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.
If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

Unplug the left speaker cable by pulling it straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

Step 28

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.
Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Step 29

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5 inches).

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5 inches).

Step 30

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Step 31

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.
Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive’s right bracket.

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive’s right bracket.

Step 32

              Remove the hard drive

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Step 33

Remove two 7.3 mm T8 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

Remove two 7.3 mm T8 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

Step 34

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.
Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.
Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Step 35

Remove the left hard drive bracket.

Remove the left hard drive bracket.

Step 36

              Remove the power supply

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.
Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

Step 37

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):
Two 23.7 mm Torx screws
Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):

Two 23.7 mm Torx screws

Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

Step 38

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.
Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

Step 39

Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Step 40

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.
Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.
Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Author

                    Adam O'Camb

Member since: 04/11/2015

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Introduction#

What you need#

Introduction

What you need