Difficulty
Difficult
Steps
23
Time Required
1 - 4 hours
Sections
1
- LED projector
- 23 steps
Flags
4
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BackHtterino Projection Alarm Clock
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What you need
Step 1
Confirm the problem is projection
- Attempt to turn on the projection light and if it doesn’t turn on then look through the hole where the projection comes out. If you can see a tiny clock image through the glass, then the problem is a burned out LED.
Attempt to turn on the projection light and if it doesn’t turn on then look through the hole where the projection comes out. If you can see a tiny clock image through the glass, then the problem is a burned out LED.
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Step 2
Remove the clock face
- Using a sharp knife, get behind the reflective glass-like face from a corner, and remove the face from front of the clock. This may come off in one layer or two. Layer one is the reflective layer and layer two is a blackout layer to keep the time LEDs from bleeding light into other areas. Be sure you have both layers removed to see white plastic
Using a sharp knife, get behind the reflective glass-like face from a corner, and remove the face from front of the clock. This may come off in one layer or two. Layer one is the reflective layer and layer two is a blackout layer to keep the time LEDs from bleeding light into other areas. Be sure you have both layers removed to see white plastic
Step 3
Remove the phone charge cover
- Insert a flat-nose screw driver into the sides of the charge cover and begin to snap the charge cover off the top of the clock.
Insert a flat-nose screw driver into the sides of the charge cover and begin to snap the charge cover off the top of the clock.
Step 4
Remove the phone charger
- There are two screws holding down the wireless charging coil. I find this coil doesn’t work well, so I snipped the positive and negative wires and desoldered the wire bits from the board to remove any opportunity for shorting.
There are two screws holding down the wireless charging coil. I find this coil doesn’t work well, so I snipped the positive and negative wires and desoldered the wire bits from the board to remove any opportunity for shorting.
Step 5
Disconnect front-face clock data cable
- This tiny flat cable is wedged into a connector on the circuit board. Pull it out carefully to avoid wrecking the cable, and remove the screws from the white plastic housing that holds the clock face LEDs.
This tiny flat cable is wedged into a connector on the circuit board. Pull it out carefully to avoid wrecking the cable, and remove the screws from the white plastic housing that holds the clock face LEDs.
Step 6
Desolder power from the circuit board
- Desolder the positive and negative power wires and wrap the ends with electrical tape to avoid harming the battery or any other parts.
Desolder the positive and negative power wires and wrap the ends with electrical tape to avoid harming the battery or any other parts.
Step 7
Remove the battery
- Gently use the flat head screw drive to wedge into the side of the battery (avoid either end of the battery) and pry out the battery from the dark plastic. It is affixed using double-sided tape. Leave the tape on the battery. It can be reused to attach the battery later during re-assembly.
Gently use the flat head screw drive to wedge into the side of the battery (avoid either end of the battery) and pry out the battery from the dark plastic. It is affixed using double-sided tape. Leave the tape on the battery. It can be reused to attach the battery later during re-assembly.
Step 8
Remove the dark plastic housing
- Remove the screws that attach the front-facing dark plastic housing from the clock. This will remove half of the inside of the clock. This holds the speakers as well as the projector wheel in place.
Remove the screws that attach the front-facing dark plastic housing from the clock. This will remove half of the inside of the clock. This holds the speakers as well as the projector wheel in place.
Step 9
Detach the projector cable
- On top of the circuit board, find the cable with yellow, green, black, and gray wires. Carefully unplug the fixture that connects it to the board. You should be able to carefully push this cable out from it’s position on the top of the board so it is inside the clock and connected to the projection wheel.
On top of the circuit board, find the cable with yellow, green, black, and gray wires. Carefully unplug the fixture that connects it to the board. You should be able to carefully push this cable out from it’s position on the top of the board so it is inside the clock and connected to the projection wheel.
Step 10
Remove the projector wheel
- Carefully ensure the projector cable isn’t wedged into any area under the circuit board or around the remaining base plastic housing. Grab the projection wheel and pull it toward the front and notice how it unseats from the plastic housing of the clock.
Carefully ensure the projector cable isn’t wedged into any area under the circuit board or around the remaining base plastic housing. Grab the projection wheel and pull it toward the front and notice how it unseats from the plastic housing of the clock.
Step 11
Remove the screws from the wheel
- Remove the two screws holding the white plastic to the dark plastic.
Remove the two screws holding the white plastic to the dark plastic.
Step 12
Disassemble the Wheel
- Carefully pull the white plastic from the dark plastic and disassemble the projection wheel into five parts.
Carefully pull the white plastic from the dark plastic and disassemble the projection wheel into five parts.
Step 13
Remove screws from projector
- Remove the two screws from the projector circuit board. Wiggle the plastic house a tiny bit away from the circuit board. This will allow the tiny clock display screen to fall away from the plastic housing and circuit board. Make note the direction of the display that is wedged between the circuit board and the plastic housing.
Remove the two screws from the projector circuit board. Wiggle the plastic house a tiny bit away from the circuit board. This will allow the tiny clock display screen to fall away from the plastic housing and circuit board. Make note the direction of the display that is wedged between the circuit board and the plastic housing.
Step 14
Remove soft rubber from the Housing
- Dig out the soft rubber from the housing that holds the LED. With one of the screw drivers, push the LED through the dark plastic housing through the rubber to reveal the LED. Desolder the LED positive and negative wires from the board.
Dig out the soft rubber from the housing that holds the LED. With one of the screw drivers, push the LED through the dark plastic housing through the rubber to reveal the LED. Desolder the LED positive and negative wires from the board.
Step 15
Replace the LED
- Measure the bend in the original LED positive and negative wires (the longer LED wire is the positive wire). Bend your new LED to match and perform a test fit from the circuit board and the plastic housing, to ensure the LED fits back into the housing with the correct bend angles. Solder the new LED into place.
Measure the bend in the original LED positive and negative wires (the longer LED wire is the positive wire). Bend your new LED to match and perform a test fit from the circuit board and the plastic housing, to ensure the LED fits back into the housing with the correct bend angles. Solder the new LED into place.
Step 16
Place some Versimold
- At the bottom of the LED where the wires exit the dark plastic housing, push some versimold into the gap. You do not have to warm the mold to harden. Heat from the wires will affix it later. Be sure to pack enough to block any LED light leaks.
At the bottom of the LED where the wires exit the dark plastic housing, push some versimold into the gap. You do not have to warm the mold to harden. Heat from the wires will affix it later. Be sure to pack enough to block any LED light leaks.
Step 17
Re-assemble the projector wheel
- Place the tiny screen into the dark plastic housing that attaches to the projection circuit board with the bump in the screen facing out. Tighten the two screws back down to attached the circuit board, the dark housing as well as the screen.
Place the tiny screen into the dark plastic housing that attaches to the projection circuit board with the bump in the screen facing out. Tighten the two screws back down to attached the circuit board, the dark housing as well as the screen.
Step 18
Assemble the White plastic and lens
- Place the white octagonal piece above the tiny screen. There are three tiny nibs that align to show you how the small white plastic piece fits into place. Hold the circuit board with the white plastic piece balanced upward and align the lens over the plastic piece to hold it in place.
Place the white octagonal piece above the tiny screen. There are three tiny nibs that align to show you how the small white plastic piece fits into place. Hold the circuit board with the white plastic piece balanced upward and align the lens over the plastic piece to hold it in place.
Step 19
Finish the White plastic assembly.
- With the lens over the tiny screen place the screen and lens back into the large white plastic wheel half. The Circuit board will align tightly into plastic edges to hold it in place and the lens will just fit into the white plastic edges in the wheel half as well. You may have to rotate the lens to get the right side to fit.
With the lens over the tiny screen place the screen and lens back into the large white plastic wheel half. The Circuit board will align tightly into plastic edges to hold it in place and the lens will just fit into the white plastic edges in the wheel half as well. You may have to rotate the lens to get the right side to fit.
Step 20
Snap the halfs back together
- Press the dark half carefully down into the white half until it fits appropriately. Flip the assembly over and put the two screws back in the white half.
Press the dark half carefully down into the white half until it fits appropriately. Flip the assembly over and put the two screws back in the white half.
Step 21
Re-assembly order
- Do the order of assembly in reverse, placing the gray projector cable up and under the clock circuit board and up to the top view of the clock and reconnect to the circuit board. Put the large dark housing of the face back in place with the projection wheel in place and put the screws back. Place the battery in the dark face housing and re-solder
Do the order of assembly in reverse, placing the gray projector cable up and under the clock circuit board and up to the top view of the clock and reconnect to the circuit board. Put the large dark housing of the face back in place with the projection wheel in place and put the screws back. Place the battery in the dark face housing and re-solder
Step 22
Final Assembly
- Re attach the white face LED housing and replace screws. Place the LED tempalte and reflective face back in place. Fit the LED data strip back into the clock circuit board. You may need to wedge electrical tape into the top of the data strip cable to hold it in place. Power up the clock. If you do not see the clock face, press down on the data cabl
Re attach the white face LED housing and replace screws. Place the LED tempalte and reflective face back in place. Fit the LED data strip back into the clock circuit board. You may need to wedge electrical tape into the top of the data strip cable to hold it in place. Power up the clock. If you do not see the clock face, press down on the data cabl
Step 23
Reconnect to wall power.
- Once you have ensured the clock face data cable is wedge down on the lower connector wires and displays correctly, snap the top charge cover back in place. Test the new LED by pressing the projector button on the top of the clock.
Once you have ensured the clock face data cable is wedge down on the lower connector wires and displays correctly, snap the top charge cover back in place. Test the new LED by pressing the projector button on the top of the clock.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Author
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Steve McDonald
Member since: 01/01/2022
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